Milan men’s SS10 round-up

The Milan men’s spring summer 10 catwalk presentation resonated a sign of the times. Designers showed less formalwear, instead focusing on delivering inventive and luxe collections that were accessible and ‘clean.’

Travel is a key trend, whether it is back to the 1980s, the 1970s and its hippie tie-dye looks revisited, or just practical weekend wear with accompanying sportswear shoes and roomy bags, according to the Herald Tribune. Patterns, from graphic checks and stripes to leafy prints with a hint of “green,” are also evident. To give you an idea, Thomas Maier opened the Bottega Veneta show with a baseball jacket and Missoni first look was a patchwork jacquard sweater worn with rolled up khakis and loose fitting coat.

Christopher Bailey at Burberry brought a utilitarian aspect to the house, where form following function gave the clothes an edge, particularly a yellow parka resembling a lifeboat man’s sou’wester, or a multi-pocketed long coat in waxed-cotton canvas.

The Jil Sander message for next season “is a message of love — very pure, very simple,” Raf Simons told Suzy Menkes backstage. The tone of the show set off the rounded softness of the illustrations against the clean, geometric lines of an elongated tunic top or a streamlined polo shirt.

Angela Missoni came up with a quote from the writer Bruce Chatwin to sum up the nomadic poetry of her menswear collection: “Travel does not merely broaden the mind. It makes the mind.”

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