Cairo’s heart is the walled city of Al Qahira (meaning ‘The Victorious’), where you can dive headfirst into the nerve centre of past empires with a stroll between its mausoleums, madrassas (colleges) and mosques. Of all the eras on display, it’s the Mamluk monuments built from 1250 AD that dominate. Follow the course of the Mamluks’ rise and fall through these four buildings, which chart the story of a slave warrior caste that turned the tables to take control.

Islamic Cairo is one of the best places in the city to see Mamluk architecture, such as the Mosques of Sultan Hassan and Al Rifai © Leonid Andronov / Shutterstock

Today visitors know this medieval district as Islamic Cairo. It was first built by the Fatimids (969-1171 AD) who claimed Cairo as their capital and then further embellished by the Ayyubids (1171-1250 AD) who knocked them off their perch. The Ayyubids made a fatal mistake while they were comfortably ensconced as rulers of Egypt. They beefed up their entire military retinue with Mamluks (slave soldiers) who would go on to wrestle them off the stage and seize Egypt for themselves.

Madrassa and Mausoleum of Qalaun

It was all change along Sharia Al Muizz Li Din Allah in the early decades of Mamluk rule. Sultan Al Mansour Qalaun was Egypt’s seventh Mamluk ruler and the first to stamp his thumbprint upon medieval Cairo’s grandest street. Built in 1285, the Madrassa and Mausoleum of Qalaun is saturated with a flashy style that heavily nods to the richly decorated Byzantine buildings the Mamluks saw on their military campaigns in Syria. Stand within the mausoleum amid the dazzle of geometric designs carved from marble and stucco, which are laced by intricate mashrabiyya (wooden lattice screens) and lit by vast stained glass windows, to take in the full scope of Qalaun’s ambition. This was a ruler scraping away the past quite literally – this building sits atop the site of a Fatimid palace – and heralding in an era of lavish ornamentation that veers distinctly off-piste from Cairo’s earlier monuments.

Qalaun’s lavishly decorated mausoleum is a distinct change from Cairo’s previous architectural styles © eFesenko / Shutterstock

Crane your neck upwards as you pass ant-like under vast arches and ponder the statement Qalaun was making. His career was launched as a slave-soldier in the Ayyubid sultan’s military, but he ended it as ruler rather than ruled. In a worthy afterlife face-off, Qalaun’s old Ayyubid owner, Sultan As Salih Ayyub, is buried directly across the road. Mosey over to his mausoleum to check out the much more restrained and austere decorative style of Egypt’s previous rulers.

Mamluk Sultan Hassan left behind one of Cairo’s most beautiful mosques © De Agostini / S. Vannini / Getty Images

Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan

Job security could be shabby for a Mamluk sultan. There were always a few people scheming in the wings, waiting to give you your marching orders and poor Sultan Hassan had it harder than most. The grandson of Sultan Qalaun became sultan at age 13, was deposed twice and was dead by the age of 27. This rather chequered biography is made up for somewhat by what he left behind. The Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan that he bequeathed Cairo is one of the city’s most spectacular mosques.

Today his mosque, decorated with red, white and black marble panels and adorned with a profusion of muqarnas (stalactite vaulting) is considered a masterpiece of Mamluk architecture. While standing amid the immense courtyard, you may wonder how a sultan so unimpressive ended up raising such a glorious building. Sultan Hassan had a bit of a lucky break money-wise during his reign. The Black Death broke out in Cairo in 1348, a year after he ascended to sultan, and as estates from plague victims automatically passed to the state, the royal coffers were full to overflowing. But all the money in the world wouldn’t have been enough to keep this sultan’s rule on track. Four minarets were originally envisaged in the mosque’s design, but the fourth toppled over as it was being built, killing 300 people. Straight away Cairo whipped into a superstition-stocked gossip frenzy that the collapse heralded Sultan Hassan’s demise. He was assassinated by his army commander just 33 days later.

The imposing 11th-century gate of Bab Zuweila is the only one left that’s open for exploration © eFesenko / Shutterstock

Bab Zuweila

One of the best places to take in the full sweep of the Islamic Cairo district’s minaret-studded skyline is from atop Bab Zuweila. Built in the 11th century under Fatimid rule, this gate marked the southern entry to the city. Today, it’s the only one of the original city gates that can be entered and explored. Above its arched entrance way, dressed in tawny coloured limestone, the flat roof is topped by two towers. During the Mamluk era, this platform, high above the dusty alleys, took on a more ceremonial role in the life of the city. Drummer boys climbed the steep stairs to the roof every evening to announce important emirs’ entry into the city, and Mamluk sultans puffed their way up here once a year to watch the departing procession of pilgrims to Mecca during the hajj. The gate’s twin minarets, built atop the towers, were added in the 15th century by Mamluk Sultan Al Mu’ayyad Shaykh, who also built the mosque that adjoins the gate’s left-hand side. Those with a head for heights can go one further than Mamluk sultans and drummers and tackle the minarets’ skinny spiral staircases, right up to the balcony for vertigo-inducing views over the bustle below.

Bab Zuweila also played a grisly role in Mamluk city life as Cairo’s main public execution space. Beheadings, hangings and being nailed to the gate’s door were popular methods of dispensing with criminals, dishonest merchants and Mamluks unfortunate enough to be on the losing side of the ruling dynasty’s many power struggles. The heads of the executed became macabre baubles, adorning the spikes above the gate. Bab Zuweila also provides the final full stop to Mamluk direct rule, as Tumanbay, the last Mamluk sultan, was hanged here by the Ottomans in 1517.

Cairo’s impressive Citadel was the centre of government for seven centuries © Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH / Shutterstock

The Citadel

The Citadel was Cairo’s ruling HQ for 700 years. The Ayyubids’ first sultan Saladin fortified this ridge of the Muqattam Hills in 1176, and all the Mamluk sultans later called it home. Not much remains of their rule here except for the tranquil Mosque of An Nasir Mohammed, but the Citadel is important to Cairo’s Mamluk history as it provides the showdown that finally obliterated their power. Although the last sultan had been hung from Bab Zuweila’s gate in 1517, the ruling class of Mamluk beys (local governors) continued to wield a considerable amount of influence, acting as general thorns in the side, through both Ottoman rule and the short period of Napoleon’s French occupation of Egypt. Mohammed Ali Pasha put an end to all that here at the Citadel in 1811.

The terrace of Cairo’s Citadel gives a panoramic overview of the city © Leonid Andronov / Shutterstock

Head up to the Citadel terrace, and you’ll be rewarded with one of Cairo’s best views, with the cityscape spreading out to the dusky silhouettes of Giza’s Pyramids on a clear day. Look away from that view for a minute to peer down into the narrow passageway that led to the Citadel’s (now closed) Bab Al Azab entrance. It was here that Mohammed Ali, having convinced all of Egypt’s 470 Mamluk beys to parade their way into the Citadel for a slap-up celebration banquet, had his troops slaughter all of them in one swoop. This dreary stone corridor provides a final bookend to the glorious legacy of Cairo’s Mamluk era.

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The Simpsons once joked, ‘Now entering Winnipeg: We were born here, what’s your excuse?’ But, as the locals know, there are many reasons to visit this charming little city (nicknamed the ‘Peg). At the top of the list might be the city’s thriving foodie culture, which keeps locals and visitors exploring the city centre and surrounding neighborhoods where excellent Manitoban and ethnic cuisines are on the menus. Throw in a growing indie beverage scene and you’ve got yourself one tasty time.

The Forks © The Forks Winnipeg

‘Meet me at the Forks’: The Forks Market

The Forks Market is a great place to start your epicurean exploration. Located in refurbished historic horse stables at the confluence of the Assiniboine and Red Rivers, this fabulous foodie (and meeting) spot is the place catch up over a drink and a bite.

Begin your stall crawl at The Common, the market’s own craft beer stop, where you watch the courtyard crowds over a local brew. Next, munch your way through offerings from the surrounding stalls. Passero, run by Chef Scott Bagshaw, features modern Italian cuisine (Bagshaw also runs the ‘Peg’s other popular eateries ­– Enoteca, a slick spot that also focusses on shared plates, and Máquè, an Asian fusion eatery). Passero is as remarkable for its striking décor as for its dishes. Here the blond wood struts almost resemble a whale skeleton. Standout bites include the charred octopus and the Caesar salad.

Next stop? Tall Grass Prairie Bakery, whose ovens turn out delectable baked goods from organic and sustainable ingredients (think whole flour; the grains are even milled on site).

Platter of meats at Segovia. Photo courtesy of Tourism Winnipeg

A bastion of Spanish flavors

Since its opening in 2009 (it helped establish the ‘Peg’s modern cuisine scene), Segovia Tapas Bar & Restaurant in Osborne Village is as popular as ever. Chef-owner Adam Donnelly applies a modern take to Spanish recipes using local (where possible), organic ingredients.

(Soon to be famous) sweet treats

Chaeban Ice Cream had literally just opened at the time of writing, but we know it will become famous. Why? Lebanese-Canadian owner, Joseph Chaeban, is a cheesemaker. This means that he truly understands the science behind dairy products. He teamed up with his Syrian wife, who is the taste tester and recipe provider extraordinaire. The result? Dense, pure cream delights, popping with both natural flavours and ingredients (many are gluten free). Get your tongue around Abir Al Sham, a favorite Arabic recipe of cashews and pistachios, with rose, orange and blossom waters, or test the tastebuds on beets (yes, really!).

Diners at RAW:almond © Travel Manitoba

Cool experiences

If anyone can conjure food magic, it’s Mandel Hitzer, owner of deer + almond and Winnipeg’s ultra-friendly ‘Personality About Town’. Hitzer’s menu is populated with strange, tasty-sounding concoctions like deer tartare with canned mushrooms and, as a nod to his German roots, a pork schnitzel.

Hitzer has also teamed with local architect Joe Kalturnyk to develop Winnipeg’s annual pop-up restaurant-on-ice – RAW:almond. Each winter near the Forks, in severely frigid temperatures, high profile chefs collaborate with Hitzer to whip up five-course menus for the ‘coolest of cool’ experiences. It’s been so popular, the program expanded to one-off events like RAW:Gimli, which took place on frozen Lake Winnipeg, 90km north of Winnipeg. RAW:churchill, meanwhile, stands as one of world’s most exciting dining experiences, in which guests munch on a five-course meal, prepared and served in a wooden yurt-style structure with a transparent Perspex roof in the far northern reaches of Manitoba while the Northern Lights dance overhead.

A carefully mixed Negroni at Forth. Photo by Josh Doohkle / Courtesy of Forth

Craft Brews, Coffee & Cocktails

The indie beverage scene is the city’s latest trend, with craft brews, coffee and cocktails joining the exploding foodie mix.

Locally roasted beans and superior blends and good baristas equal superb coffees. For great caffeine and killer breakfasts, plus a hip, basement setting (gotta love a ‘70s-style wallpaper and cactus or two), don’t go past Clementine in the trendy Exchange District. Owners Carolina Konrad (formerly of Segovia) and her sister, Raya, serve up some of the best meals around: the porridge (yes, really) is one of the city’s best bites. Or you could hunker down for a coffee or a great cocktail at Forth, where the Scandanavian-style social spaces and art gallery (plus a rooftop bar in summer) are magnets for both workers and conversationalists.

For evening relaxation, Langside Grocery in West Broadway, serves up cocktail creations in a cosy, dimly lit space (formerly a residential grocer’s store; there’s no signage). Or munch your way through the various ethnic options that line Corydon Avenue. While here, nestle in for a late night at The Roost, a small space cocktail bar that emulates a tree house. Its young team cobbles together some great mixes and quality tapas plates.

Beer lovers should hop into a cab and head to Brazen Hall Kitchen & Brewery, one of the latest additions to Winnipeg’s emerging microbrewery scene. This lively, barn-like place, draws in a great crowd for its craft brews (made on the premises) and hearty portions of gastropub-style meals. (For serious brew fans, other names on froth-lined lips are Little Brown Jug, One Great City, Torque and Barn Hammer).

The ‘Back to Bison Cheddar Burger’ on a bannock bun at Feast © Travel Manitoba

Community treasure

But while food is a focus, local restauranteurs don’t miss the point of their businesses: community. Nowhere is this more obvious than Feast Bistro & Café, a sunny and friendly ‘local’ in Winnipeg’s West End neighborhood. This Indigenous-owned and operated eatery dishes up simple, delicious bites using traditional Indigenous ingredients (bannock and bison is celebrated here). Owner, Christa Bruneau-Guenther, ensures that ‘all are welcome’ and even employs those people who, in her words, have had ‘previous barriers to employment’.

A crowd lines up outside BDI (Bridge Drive In). Image by Bryan Scott / Photo courtesy of Tourism Winnipeg

Nostalgic bites

No matter how fancy the food, firm favourites still thrive (the ‘Peg’s many ethnic eateries and hole-in-the-walls being no exception). These institutions are integral to many locals’ childhoods: summer walks along the river, first dates and regular family outings. For the traveller, these are a fun way to get your head and heart around town.

Locals will tell you that the ‘best burgers in town’ are at VJ’s Drive Inn, a hole-in-the-wall located in a parking lot. It’s advised that you order up the iconic VJ’s Special, a chilli-flavoured thrill. Nearby is Salisbury House which introduced the term ‘Nip’ to the local burger lexicon (for its ever-so-slightly lesser amount of meat).

Bridge Drive-In (or ‘BDI’ as the locals call it) on Jubilee Avenue, is an ice-cream institution located by the Red River a few kilometres south of the city centre. Since 1957 this modest spot has whipped up quirkily-named confectionaries: Banana Bonanza, Sleeping Beauty and Saltzberg. Try the famous Goog, a blueberry shake with a hot fudge sundae, bananas and whipped cream.

To tip you from a sugary high into saccharine frenzy, don’t miss Baked Expectations where, for a few bucks, you can feast on anything from a range of cheesecakes to a Shmoo, a sponge cake with caramel topping.

Farmers markets and food trucks

Sated? We haven’t touched on the city’s 13 or so farmers markets dotted around the city, offering fresh fruit, vegetables, artisanal cheeses and farm-made goodies. The city’s largest, St Norbert Farmers’ Market sells meats, preserves and baked products made only in Manitoba. Then there are around 45 food trucks that keep the food scene revving and serve everything from Thai food to Middle Eastern bites.

Taken along with the all the options above (plus everything we couldn’t fit in this piece), this adds up to a downright vibrant foodie scene that bucks the old perceptions of Winnipeg. As the can’t-miss plates keep piling up, maybe it’s the foodie travelers who still haven’t visited who should be asking each other, ‘What’s your excuse?’

This article was updated on March 16 and originally published in December 2014.

Abu Dhabi’s humble roots are difficult to unearth. Following its oil boom, the city has become a playground for the Gulf’s rich and famous. But beyond the domino-like deluxe hotels, it retains seductive charms and a treasure trove of souqs, traditional dhows, date palm gardens and the odd thirsty camel.

What do the locals in Abu Dhabi do to pass the time? Depending on the season and time of day – remember cold nights, sandstorms and summer temperatures of 48°C (118°F) are not uncommon here – you could be off roading in the desert, taking a boat trip along the coast or rugging up under the Gulf’s burnishing stars.

Journey through a seafaring past in Al Bateen

The best way to get to grips with Abu Dhabi is to do as the locals do. Begin the day with a steaming cup of gahwa (strong Arabic coffee) at your hotel and then head to the restored Al Bateen Shipyard (Al Bateen Island, next to the Intercontinental Hotel), one of the oldest inhabited areas of the city. In the company of gnarled Sinbad the Sailor seadogs, you can learn about the city’s maritime heritage, which has been forged by dhow sailing boats, offshore pearl harvesting and fishing. If the ocean breezes beckon, you can charter your own boat to skirt the city’s outer limits in style.

Qasr Al Hosn Palace, the oldest stone building in Abu Dhabi © Veronica Garbutt / Getty Images

Discover the beginnings of city and country at Qasr Al Hosn

In the centre of Khalidiya lies the first and oldest stone structure on Abu Dhabi Island, the intriguing and historic Qasr Al Hosn fort. Built as a watchtower in 1760 and once the only stone structure for miles, the fort stands its ground in the shadow of the towering modern skyscrapers all around it. Later expanded to a fort, Qasr Al Hosn eventually became home to the Al Nahyan ruling family and the site of the country’s first National Council. Although currently under renovation, you can catch glimpses of the watchtower and fortified walls as you enter the free exhibition on site, which recounts the city’s history through objects and images portraying the humble lives and daily hardships endured. Interactive exhibits and videos of locals also narrate tales of how life used to be among the sand and searing heat.

Wander through the palm trees of a gorgeous oasis in Al Ain © sharrocks / Getty Images

Explore Unesco cultural sites in the ‘Garden City’ of Al Ain

Around an hour’s drive to the south and into the desert lies Al Ain, one of the world’s oldest permanently inhabited settlements, now a Unesco World Heritage Site. Spend some time sheltering from the heat of the day by wandering through one of the six Al Ain oases that form just one of the Unesco-recognised cultural sites of the city. A visit to the Al Ain Camel Market is also a fascinating and eye-opening experience where frenzied breeders and buyers haggle over prized animals like the region’s nomadic shepherds have done for centuries.

Driving a go-kart at Yas Marina Circuit © Francois Nel / Getty Images

Get in the driver’s seat of a golf cart or go kart

Come in winter (the best time to visit as the temperature hovers in the mid-20s) and you may find the locals practising more modern pursuits on one of Abu Dhabi’s outlying islands. Sporting legend Gary Player has opened a signature golf course on Saadiyat Island, while the arrival of the Yas Marina Grand Prix circuit on nearby Yas Island has opened up the city to go kart racing and a calendar of motorsport.

Test your haggling skills at Abu Dhabi’s markets © Matilde Gattoni / Getty Images

Shop, haggle and people watch

Before the sun dips below the horizon like a ripe orange, Abu Dhabi’s central souqs become chaotic, bustling beehives – the perfect place to buy a pearl necklace, aromatic pinch of frankincense or kitsch mosque alarm clock. Better still, practice your haggling and pick up a pair of curly-toed Persian slippers for that difficult aunt. Though sadly many of the original souqs of the city have been lost through redevelopment or have burnt down, modern souqs reimagined in a traditional yet modern style have replaced these. Favoured choices for items you won’t find in the malls are the World Trade Center Souk or Souk Qaryat Al Beri. Though both lack a certain authenticity, they make for a pleasant outing and a spot of people watching.

Appreciate the endless sands surrounding Abu Dhabi on a desert safari © Buena Vista Images / Getty Images

Get to grips with the sand on a desert safari

Built on the edge of the Rub Al Khali, one of the world’s great desert seas, Abu Dhabi is prime territory for 4×4 off-road safaris. Once more accustomed to the likes of Lawrence of Arabia and great British explorer Sir Wilfred Thesiger, the rolling carpet of sand is perfect for all manner of family adventures. Ever the entrepreneurs, Emiratis will give you the chance to ride a camel, get to grips with falconry or even try sandboarding. Don’t miss the chance to dine under the stars either, especially in the cooler winter months, as plenty of tour companies offer sundowner drive-and-dine trips into the dunes.

Join the locals for a late-night shisha session © Getsaraporn / Getty Images

While away an evening like a local

The best way to mingle with the UAE’s increasingly young population of locals and expats is to enjoy a night of hookah at one of numerous hotel bars or shisha cafes. A popular spot is the aptly named Hookah Lounge on Marina Breakwater where you’ll enjoy panoramic views across the waters of the city skyline. Hookah Lounge does offer food, but for a more authentic taste of the Middle East, try the small but mighty Lebanon Mill just off Fatima Bint Mubarak St, where the staff are friendly and the food is fresh and delicious. Tuck into a wide variety of Middle Eastern dishes, including hummus, moutabel (purée of aubergine mixed with tahini, yogurt and olive oil) and fattoosh (a salad of toasted bread, tomatoes, onions and mint leaves). Their shish tawook (tomato and yoghurt marinated grilled chicken) is among both the best and the cheapest in the city.

Be warned though: after socialising for what may seem like 1001 nights, getting up the next day might be harder than you think.

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Don’t be surprised though if it’s the clink of pint glasses in a country pub and broad-accented, straight-talking locals that make the biggest impressions.

The Yorkshire countryside is just one good reason to visit God’s Own County © Farm Images / Contributor / Getty Images

The great outdoors

Yorkshire has some of the most evocative landscapes in England. It was out on the wiley, windy moors that Heathcliff and Cathy of Emily Bronte’s Wuthering Heights roamed. It was the dales’ limestone scars that supposedly gave Tolkien (a professor at the University of Leeds in the 1920s) inspiration for the fortress of Helm’s Deep in Lord of the Rings. And it was the waterfalls of Aysgarth and Thornton Force that brought Turner and his paints here in the 19th century.

Aysgarth Falls – Turner couldn’t resist getting out his brushes here and they’re still a great photo opportunity today © Wayne Hutchinson / Farm Images / Getty Images

There are three popular ways to immerse yourself in all this countryside: on foot, on two wheels, and from the comfort of a vintage steam train. Historic village coaching inns cater for hikers on the long-distance Pennine Way and Coast to Coast trails, and cyclists inspired by the region’s challenging ascents and annual Tour de Yorkshire, which launched after the Tour de France’s phenomenally popular foray into Yorkshire in 2014. The region’s best day hike is hands-down the 4.5-mile Malham Landscape Trail which takes in Malham Cove, a sheer limestone cliff and nesting spot for peregrine falcons that was used as a setting in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. If you pick just one train journey, make it the classic North Yorkshire Moors Railway that chugs daily between Whitby and Pickering.

History galore

York’s lineage as the Roman city of Eboracum and later Viking settlement of Jorvik makes it one of Europe’s most interesting cities for history-lovers and archaeology buffs, yet it’s York’s surviving medieval remains that usually ensnare visitors. Many don’t make it beyond the minster and city walls, which is a shame given that the surrounding area contains some of the UK’s most impressive attractions. The spa town of Harrogate, for example, still has its original Victorian Turkish Baths and they’re in perfect working order. Take the 30-minute train from York and book in for a steam and scrub amid the surreal mock-Moorish splendour.

Stroll York’s medieval walls, visit its magnificent minster, then strike out to explore more of the region © Peter Etchells / Shutterstock

Elsewhere, castles, country estates and abandoned abbey ruins lurk down every country lane. Castle Howard is one of England’s finest examples of baroque and Palladian design. It was the first domestic building in the country to have a domed roof – put there by Nicholas Hawksmoor, one of the architects who worked on St Paul’s Cathedral in London, after which it was modelled. The giant ruins of Fountains Abbey and whimsical Studley Royal gardens are equally astounding. On the coast, Whitby is famed for its haunting abbey and literary cachet as the landing point for Dracula –bemused officials at St Mary’s Church encounter so many fans on a fruitless hunt for the vampire’s grave that they’ve had to put up a notice explaining that it doesn’t exist.

From industrial to chic

In the 18th and 19th centuries, Yorkshire was the hammering heart of England’s industrial revolution. Coal soot blackened the stone facades of its urban manufacturing districts as mills, forges and belching factories churned through metals, wool, corn, flour and malts. These days those same districts are in the throes of regeneration with independent businesses clamouring to rent space in now-fashionable industrial spaces. In West Yorkshire’s offbeat arty community of Hebden Bridge the town’s old red-brick mill has become a hive of vintage stores and small-scale designers. In Leeds’ Holbeck area there’s Northern Monk, a craft brewery and taproom wedged into a 19th-century flax mill. Visit Hull, from where whaling fleets once sailed, and you’ll find the marina area has been reborn as a restaurant and bar enclave since its year as UK Capital of Culture in 2017.

Making quality craft beer is something of a ‘habit’ at Northern Monk in Leeds © Lorna Parkes / Lonely Planet

Of all Yorkshire’s cities, it is Sheffield – the ‘steel city’, surrounded by rich metal deposits – that has clung to its industrial roots most fondly. The oldest district, Kelham Island, houses an excellent museum on the metalworking heritage. Preserved within a city suburb, the Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet is a frozen-in-time example of a workers’ community before the days of steel factories. Between Leeds and Sheffield, it’s also possible to descend 40ft into a grimy mining pit on a subterranean tour with cheery ex-miners at the National Coal Mining Museum. It sits atop a site abandoned in the 1980s when Britain’s dwindling coal industry finally gasped its last breath.

Real pubs, real ale

Grab a pie and a pint in a Yorkshire pub and you’ll learn everything you need to know about local culture, because the village boozer is the epicentre of county life. The array of watering holes is vast and you could make a comprehensive tour of the region simply by plotting an extended pub crawl, visiting rural real-ale pubs then urban craft beer taprooms. The dales and moors are crammed with ancient inns such as Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in England where outside the wind howls as eerily as the werewolf on a poster inside the bar (fact: the 1981 film An American Werewolf in London follows two American backpackers over the Yorkshire moors).

Say (Wensleydale) cheese! © Christopher Furlong / Getty Images

There are also dozens of gastropubs championing modern British cuisine using Yorkshire’s prize-winning local produce: try the Black Swan at Oldstead, Star Inn at Harome or Pipe & Glass near Beverley for Michelin-starred fine food. To see the farm-to-fork process in action, visit the Wensleydale Creamery in the dales and learn all about the curds and whey before tasting dozens of samples, including a cheese infused with Black Sheep Brewery’s Riggwelter ale.

The art of Yorkshire

Two of England’s greatest 20th-century sculptors, Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth, had West Yorkshire roots and drew inspiration from the landscapes of the region. Their legacy has spawned numerous art institutions worthy of any visitor’s time, creating what has been dubbed the Yorkshire Sculpture Triangle. Top dog is the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, which draws internationally acclaimed artists such as Ai Weiwei and Andy Goldsworthy, dotting their sculptures across a vast open-air gallery within the 500-acre Bretton Estate near Wakefield. It feels like pure whimsy, and a stroll through the grounds is utter magic.

The Hepworth Wakefield shows off some fine Yorkshire art in a fine Yorkshire setting © View Pictures / Getty Images

But the best place to see Moore and Hepworth’s work is the ultra-modern Hepworth Wakefield gallery nearby. The collection is small but it’s the most concentrated hit of either artist’s work you’ll find anywhere in the world. The third prong of the triangle is the recently refurbished Leeds Art Gallery, which has a nationally important collection of British art and sculpture. Beyond the gallery, look out for street art around hubs such as Leeds train station, Kirkgate Market and the old mill district of Holbeck – partly the result of an inspired commissioning spree by the local council to bring more colour to the streets of the city.

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‘Up there – can you see them?’ Scanning the evening sky above the jungle, they were alarmingly easy to spot: hundreds of Pteropus vampyrus – or flying foxes – out on an evening feeding mission. With a wingspan approaching 1.5m, the giant bats filled the horizon in a flapping black swarm.

It was my first night in southern Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park, and a dramatic introduction to the wildlife I knew lurked in this ancient rainforest.

Khao Sok National Park is one of the oldest rainforests in the world and is home to hundreds of indigenous animal and plant species © Cultura Exclusive / Philip Lee Harvey / Getty Images

Some say the biodiversity of Khao Sok exceeds that of the Amazon. Most agree that at over 160 million years old, the evergreen rainforest here is one of the oldest in the world. Whichever list it tops, the fact this 738-sq-km expanse of national park exists at all in its current state – alive with whooping gibbons, flashing hornbills and with such richness of flora and fauna that an entomologist on honeymoon once picked up a rock and discovered a new species – is something to be grateful for. And this biodiversity haven owes a few thanks to an unexpected twist of fate.

From 1975 to 1982, at a time when Thailand was losing 3% of its forest cover a year to the logging industry, a group of communist insurgents made a stronghold in the caves of Khao Sok. From here they acted out guerrilla warfare against the Thai government, inadvertently also keeping loggers, miners and hunters at the park’s fringes, allowing the jungle inside to thrive.

The national park is home to over 300 different bird species, including the white-throated kingfisher © Mustang_79 / Getty Images

And thanks to them, thrive it does. Treetops shake with monkeys and birds, winged lizards bounce from branch to rock, and sky-high bamboo stalks bathe everything in a stripey green light.

Located inland between the Andaman and Gulf coasts, Khao Sok is often overlooked by travellers in favour of southern Thailand’s coastal resorts and islands. But for anyone wishing to swap beach beats for tranquil jungle trails, lake swimming, cool bat-filled caves and the chance to spot a wealth of indigenous species in their natural habitat, this secret garden is an easy getaway.

Giant bamboo stalks line trails through the rainforest © Sam Spicer / Shutterstock

Swinging gibbons and tarantula nests: jungle trekking

Just being in the park means coming face to face with nature, but the best way to experience Khao Sok’s wild bounty is on a guided jungle trek. It is possible to trek independently and trails from the park headquarters are well-maintained and easy-to-follow, but the knowledge of the local guides will enhance your trip ten-fold. They’ll point out the woven funnel of a tarantula nest or the scratches on a tree made by a Malayan sun bear, and will give lessons on the jungle’s medicinal plants and birdsong.

Listen out for rustling trees: a sure sign there are monkeys nearby; families of long-tailed macaques are a common sight © Dora Ball / Lonely Planet

Most of the big mammals in the park – wild elephants, sun bears, clouded leopards and tigers – will remain elusive to trekkers, but the cracking of jackfruit should soon alert you to the presence of primates. Long-tailed macaques are an almost guaranteed sight, with troupes making bold acrobatic displays right on the trail. White-handed gibbons and spectacled langurs are a rarer and more rewarding spot. Gibbons stick to the high branches making long, Tarzan-like swings through the trees; a joy to behold. Gaurs, tapirs and barking deer can sometimes be seen or heard, especially in the wet season (June to October).

The shy and mysterious mouse deer is a native to the park © Kajornyot Wildlife Photography / Shutterstock

On night safaris, the jungle takes on another persona as it squeaks and hisses with insects and some 30 bat species, including 8 varieties of megabat. This is also the time to look out for a tiny mouse deer, the smallest hooved animal in the world, or the big glassy eyes of a slow loris. When in bloom, special treks to see the Rafflesia kerrii are put into operation. With a diameter reaching 90cm, it’s the largest flower in the world, and, in Thailand, only grows in Khao Sok.

Huge karst mountains rise from the placid water of Chiaw Lan Lake © Dadoodas / Getty Images

Raft houses and swimming in Chiaw Lan Lake

This vast 165-sq-km lake sprawls in the middle of the park, a sparkling blue jewel in the crown of its attractions. It’s a magical place where huge karst mountains rise from the water. Some reach over 900m – three times the height of those in Vietnam’s Halong Bay. The jungle growth at the lake’s edge shimmers emerald in the reflected light. It seems peculiar that something so naturally stunning could be a modern invention, but the lake was formed in 1982 when the Ratchaprapha Dam was constructed.

Lake swimming, kayaking, hiking and cave tours are available from the rustic raft house complexes found in the lake © Auleit / Getty Images

To fully appreciate the tranquility of the lake, an overnight stay in a floating raft house is a must, and access is by a thrilling long-tail boat ride across the vast lake. The accommodation is rustic, but this is more than made up for by glorious lake swimming and the dawn mist rolling over the water to the whoops of gibbon calls.

Spiders, bats, and intricate stalactites and stalagmites are features of cave visits © ViewApart / Getty Images

Bats and stalactites: cave tours

For fans of the dark delights of spelunking, there are several intriguing caves to visit, including Tham Si Ru – the cave used as a secret hideout by communist insurgents in the late 1970s. Two of the easier to access are Pra Kay Petch (Diamond) and Pakaran (Coral) caves, both of which include a long-tail boat or raft trip to the cave entrance, and fabulous rock formations inside.

A more intrepid experience is a guided trek through Nam Thalu cave. Not for the faint-hearted, the trek involves wading in subterranean streams through an increasingly narrow passage and should not be carried out in the rainy season when flash flooding is a real risk.

Tree stumps protruding from Chiaw Lan Lake are evidence of its formation from the damming of the Phrasaeng River in 1982 © Martijn Senders / EyeEm / Getty Images

Make it happen

Khao Sok National Park is located inland from the Andaman Coast of southern Thailand, around two hours’ drive from Khao Lak, or an hour from Surat Thani. From Surat you can catch a bus going towards Takua Pa; from the Andaman Coast, take a Surat Thani-bound bus. Buses stop on Rte 401, 1.8km southwest of the park headquarters, which has useful maps for trekking and other information. Most visitors see the park on a two- or three-night organised tour which will usually include accommodation, activities such as trekking and caving as well as a stay in a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake, and transfer from Surat Thani or Khao Lak. Tours can also be arranged with most of the lodges in the park itself. We recommend avoiding any package offering elephant riding.

Tour operators

Rainforest Camp specialises in luxury tented accommodation, both floating style on the lake, and in its Elephant Hills jungle lodge. Its two-night, three-day package (from THB 20,372) includes transfers, meals, a non-riding elephant interaction, guided trekking and a night on the lake.

Anurak Community Lodge is situated in a tranquil spot apart from the park’s main hub, and runs day tours including trips (but no overnight stay) to Chiaw Lan Lake, trekking, tubing and rafting on the Sok River. Its 18 bungalows (from THB 2900 a night, without activities) are surrounded by lush vegetation.

Rickshaw Travel is a UK-based operator specialising in immersive travel experiences. It offers a three-night, four-day tour of the park (from £468 per person), with transfers, accommodation in a community-run lodge, meals, an English-speaking guide and a night on a floating raft house on Chiaw Lan Lake. The Khao Sok trip is one of several short tours that can be combined into a longer holiday (a minimum of three trips is required for booking).

What to pack

• Light, breathable clothing
• Rain poncho or waterproof jacket
• Swimming costume and towel
• Sunglasses and hat
• Sturdy walking shoes or trainers with good tread
• Insect repellent (with DEET)
• Suncream
• Ear plugs
• Small torch
• Camera, charger and universal plug adaptor
• Daypack

Code of conduct

• Stick to existing hiking trails to avoid erosion
• Never chase or try to catch wildlife
• Take all litter with you, including cigarette ends
• There are no toilets on hiking trails; bury your waste and burn tissue
• Never cut down wood for fire making. Use dead branches
• Ensure fires are completely out and cleared before moving on
• Nudity causes offence in Thai culture; wear a modest swimming costume when bathing

Dora Ball travelled to Thailand with support from Rickshaw Travel. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

Among Kazakhstan’s endless grasslands on the windswept northern steppes, the forward-looking modern city of Astana has sprouted. With a skyline punctuated by gleaming new skyscrapers that seem to defy the laws of physics, the capital is an eye-catching showcase of international, 21st-century architecture and a glimpse into a city of the future.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the depressed agricultural town of Tselinograd was completely revamped and renamed Astana when President Nazarbayev unexpectedly named it Kazakhstan’s future capital in 1994. The transformation from small town to world-class capital has continued since Astana officially took on the job title in late 1997 and was renamed from Akmola to Astana in 1998. This ever-growing city – host to the Expo 2017 world fair – offers a glimpse into a town of tomorrow.

Gleaming architecture at every turn © Yerbolat Shadrakhov / Getty

Home to the world’s fair at Expo 2017

Astana’s profile got an international lift when the city hosted Expo 2017 (expo2017astana.com), kicking off on 10 June 2017. Despite Kazakhstan’s oil-reliant economy, the Expo’s theme was ‘Future Energy’, with energy companies, NGOs and the general public debating how to have safe and sustainable access to energy while reducing emissions. The Expo site, well connected to central Astana, was designed to be self-sufficient in energy and during the Expo, displayed the 17 best sustainable energy-generating projects from around the world. Some 3.8 million visitors attended the fair, with 101 countries taking part. After the event ended, the Expo grounds and pavilion spaces were transformed into spaces for organisations dedicated to education and research, well as venues for commercial use by companies and startups.

Golden cones flank the Presidential Palace © Thien Bui / 500px

Spy futuristic architecture on Nurzhol Bulvar

Stroll Nurzhol Bulvar to spot Astana’s most striking contemporary constructions. The architecture-exhibition boulevard runs between the impressive Ak Orda – the imposing, palatial building where the president works – and Khan Shatyr, a wacky off-centre tent-like structure and one of Astana’s most incredible buildings. The centrepiece of Nurzhol Bulvar is the 97m-tall Bayterek Monument, a white-latticed tower topped with a golden egg, a tribute to a Kazakh legend. A lift whisks visitors to the top for unforgettable views of the city and buildings with clever local nicknames, such as the two gold conical ‘beer cans’ near Ak Orda, the blue-green rippling ‘Northern Lights’ skyscrapers, and the gleaming copper ‘cigarette lighter’ that houses the Transport and Communications Ministry.

Across the Ishim River, the bold glass-and-steel pyramid of the Palace of Peace & Accord was designed by Norman Foster as a place of harmony where leaders of various religions could meet for the triennial Congress of World and Traditional Religions. A guided tour of the building takes in the basement opera hall, the striking atrium, the diagonally rising lifts, the hanging gardens and the light-filled tip of the pyramid with stained-glass doves courtesy of British artist Brian Clarke.

Shashlik (skewered meat grilled on charcoals) is a Kazakh staple © Martin Moos / Getty

Eat like a local

Like any capital city worth its salt, Astana’s dining scene is varied and expanding fast. Culinary offerings range from comfort Kazakh food at the likes of Epoch (a kitschy Soviet restaurant at 9 Valikhanov St) and Vechnoye Nebo (vechnoenebo.kz) to excellent shashlik (skewered meat) and own brew at the Line Brew microbrewery. International cuisines are also well represented: authentic Indian at Fusion Guru (thefusionguru.com), excellent sushi at Izumi Tay (facebook.com/izumi.astana), spicy Korean at Korean House (korean-house.kz) and fragrant Georgian at Daredzhani (Qabanbay Batyr Ave 34).

Listen to traditional music

Astana may be a modern city, but it’s still possible to hear the sounds of the dombra (a two-stringed, long-necked Turkic lute) and the kobyz (an ancient, fiddle-like string instrument) at folk music concerts. The most prestigious venue for these concerts is the Central Concert Hall, a curvy, flower-like structure designed by Italian architect Manfredi Nicoletti.

Indoor beach at the Norman Foster-designed Khan Shatyr © Jane Sweeney / Getty

Hit the beach, indoors

The 150m-high, translucent Khan Shatyr is one of Astana’s most remarkable buildings. Designed by Norman Foster, it’s the largest marquee in the world. The structure is made of ethylene tetrafluoroethylene, a heat-absorbing material that keeps the temperature inside the marquee-cum-shopping-centre a balmy 20+ degrees, a tropical oasis in the depths of winter. In addition to shops spread across multiple floors, the Khan Shatyr features a monorail and rides for kids, and the top floor has been turned into the exclusive Sky Beach Club, which has a sandy beach, swimming pool, palm trees, water slides and more – particularly nice when winter temperatures plunge into the negatives.

Get a room for any price

Thirty-five new hotels opened in Astana in the lead up to Expo 2017, and there are rooms for all budgets, from the 5-star Radisson, St Regis Astana (stregisastanaresidences.com) and Beijing Palace Soluxe (soluxe-astana.kz) to bona fide hostels such as Nomad Hostel and Apple Hostel, and a whole slew of mid-range hotels, such as Boutique Hotel Tomiriz at Kurgaldzhinskoye Hwy 9 and Tengri Hotel (tengri-hotel.hoteleastana.com).

Traditional equestrian armour on display at the National Museum © Megan Eaves / Lonely Planet

Uncover history in a world-class museum

The giant National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan is a remarkable collection of all things Kazakhstani. The entrance hall is magnificent, with a soaring golden eagle under the Kazakh sun, and exhibits run the gamut from archaeology and pre-history to WWII, the Gulags and contemporary Kazakh art. The Hall of Gold showcases the treasures unearthed from the many burial mounds scattered around the country, while the Hall of Ethnography delves into the nomadic way of life.

Poignant memorial museum in Malinovka © Bas van den Heuvel / Shutterstock

Remember the Soviet past

The area around Astana has a sombre history. During Stalin’s reign, the village of Malinovka, 35km west of Astana, was home to ALZhIR, an internment camp for the wives and children of the ‘enemies of the people’. The Museum-Memorial Complex honours the victims of Soviet political repression with numerous displays on the Gulag system in Kazakhstan. Tour companies in Astana can arrange day tours. In Astana itself, you can spot wonderful Soviet-era mosaics of the working class on the old train station building. Several blocks from the old train station, you can see a decrepit grain silo, dating back to the ill-fated Virgin Lands project pushed by Nikita Khrushchev in the 1950s.

Make it happen

Many travellers are surprised at how easy it is to reach Astana. Kazakhstan’s national airline, Air Astana, operates non-stop flights to the capital from major cities in Europe and Asia, as well as from other destinations in Central Asia and the Caucasus. Travellers from 45 countries, including the European Union, the United States, Canada and Australia, can travel in Kazakhstan visa-free for up to 30 days after the rules were relaxed in January 2017.

Central Concert Hall at twilight © Jane Sweeney / Getty

Astana is easy to get around with a network of new buses and a handy smartphone app called Astana Bus Free. Eco taxis can be summoned with the EcoTaxi app (ecotaxi.kz) and paid for with credit cards. A light rail network is scheduled to be finished in 2018. Astana is already well connected to other parts of Kazakhstan by train and by plane, with a new railway station opened in June 2017, doubling the city’s annual railway passengers. A new airport terminal opened the same month more than doubling the city’s air passenger capacity, along with two new long-distance bus stations.

This article was originally published in May 2017 and updated in June 2018.