August is prime time for an epic escape and this round-up will whip you around the planet, exploring the colourful cultural shows of Papua New Guinea, witnessing Kenya’s mighty Masai Mara migration and enjoying balmy days pottering around Italy’s idyllic Umbria region.

Whether you want some dreamy downtime, adrenaline-fuelled action, cultural gems or animal encounters, these trips are sure to be the crown jewel in your travel calendar.

Abseiling into Furco Canyon in the Pyrenees © pedrosala / Shutterstock

Where are the best places to visit in August for adventure?

August’s action-packed adventures are sure to get the blood pumping. Start by scaling Ecuador’s awe-inspiring ‘Avenue of Volcanoes’ before getting up-close and personal with South America’s profusion of wildlife in the Amazon, the Galápagos archipelago and the northern cloud forests. Another range of peaks awaits in Europe too: the Pyrenees are perfect for adrenaline junkies with ample opportunities to hike, bike, abseil and even go kayaking and rafting.

If it’s water-bound activities you’re after, nowhere is more epic than the mighty Zambezi river. Despite being the dry season, August beckons the best white water for rafting as well as the ideal conditions to take a dip in the Devil’s Pool on Livingstone Island, teetering at the very edge of the falls. A slightly more surprisingly aquatic adventure hotspot can be found in Pembrokeshire, on the west coast of Britain. As well as hiking, climbing and cycling, this rugged coastline is prime real estate for sea kayaking, coasteering and even surfing.

Steel yourself for these ultimate adventures.

Koh Samui is ultimate island bliss! And breathe… © Anton Gvozdikov / Shutterstock

Where are the best places to visit in August for relaxation?

It’s time to go tropical with your R’n’R in August. While most of Thailand is besieged by the rainy season, Koh Samui sits pretty in sun-kissed bliss. Spend your days laid out (cocktail in hand, preferably) on sugar-soft sands beneath swaying palms – there’s a fantastic nightlife scene here too, if you want to amp up your activities after dark. Azure oceans, stunning snorkelling and lush volcanic peaks also await in the Pacific paradise of the Cook Islands.

Those looking to pepper their downtime with some history and culture should head to Italy’s Umbria region, the perfect setting for a rustic retreat among medieval-walled hill towns, artistic treasures and a sumptuous food and wine scene. Alternatively, hop on a traditional twin-masted sailboat (gület) to explore the gems of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast, the wind in your hair and nothing but the sea, skies and a whole lot of relaxation to contend with.

Escape the everyday humdrum with these relaxing retreats.

A chameleon catching an insect in Andasibe National Park, Madagascar © Leamus / Getty Images

Where are the best places to visit in August for wildlife and nature?

Mother Nature is seemingly at her most magnificent come August. Animal encounters are larger than life with over 1.5 million wildebeest making their migratory crossing of the Mara River in Kenya. Over in Tonga huge humpback whales are returning from Antarctica to have their calves. Kayak, snorkel, dive or swim (but be sure to choose a reputable tour operator) alongside these breathtaking behemoths and you’ll be treated to their melodic whale songs, which can be heard up to 20 miles away. As well these singing cetaceans, this time of year you’ll be sharing the seas with pods of dolphins, sea turtles, manta rays and myriad other marine creatures.

Few places on earth are as biodiverse, or simply as mind-blowing, as Madagascar. Home to tens of thousands of endemic plant and animal species, the ‘Great Red Island’ is primed for fantastic wildlife watching in the dry season. There’s a dizzying variety of creatures to behold, from bug-eyed chameleons to prancing sifaka lemurs, adorable aye-ayes and rainbow-feathered birds. An alternative otherworldly natural landscape can be found over in Iceland’s bubbling lava fields. This unique landscape becomes more accessible in August, allowing visitors to explore the volcanic craters and rock formations, boiling lava flumes and a turquoise hot-water caldera lake.

Dive into Mother Nature’s finest.

Join the locals celebrating the Mount Hagen Cultural Show in Papua New Guinea © John Crux / Shutterstock

Where are the best places to visit in August for culture?

Looking for a healthy dose of culture beyond the art galleries and museums? We’ve got just the ticket for you! There’s no better way to get under the skin of a destination than by living like the locals. Intrepid travellers should head for Papua New Guinea to join the tribespeople in celebrating the Sepik River Crocodile Festival in Ambunti, and the Mount Hagen Cultural Show – both incredible colourful carnivals of music, dance and local culture. The party scene in Buenos Aires is also in full swing with the annual Tango Buenos Aires festival. Don your dancing shoes for a masterclass in this sultry step before heading out to watch the pros at various performances and concerts around the Argentinian capital.

In Stockholm, sunny skies provide the perfect backdrop for exploring the archipelago’s open-air museum Skansen, as well as the cobbled streets of Gamla Stan (old town). In need of a pit stop en route? Pop into one of Stockholm’s seemingly infinite cosy cafes for a spot of fika (coffee and cake). August is also an ideal time to get out and about in Sofia, Bulgaria. Explore the vibrant restaurant and bar culture after a day spent discovering Roman ruins, Ottoman architecture, onion-domed churches and mighty Soviet monuments.

Find out more about these cultural enclaves.

Looking for more inspiration? Check out our book Where To Go When for 360 ultimate escapes from family-friendly adventures to animal encounters and relaxing retreats.

A desert road trip just south of Abu Dhabi will transport you far from the city’s skyscrapers and malls and add a cinematic, sensory dimension to your UAE adventure. Here you’ll find vast open spaces lidded by cornflower skies, waves of sandy dunes shimmering in shades from silver to cinnamon, lonesome camels by the roadside and lush date palm groves. Impressions seem to get more magical with every mile of tarmac.

For an in-depth experience of this part of the world, take a 500km loop around to Liwa, an oasis on the edge of the Rub Al Khali – the ‘Empty Quarter’. The Empty Quarter is the world’s largest uninterrupted sand desert, and it’s draped over an area roughly three times the size of the UK. British explorer Bertram Thomas was the first Westerner to cross this giant sandbox in 1931, and Wilfred Thesiger made the region famous in his travelogue Arabian Sands.

Reflect upon these epic journeys, done entirely on foot and by camel under the blistering sun, as you tool around on modern wheels in air-conditioned comfort.

Falcon taking flight © Karim Sahib / AFP / Getty

Madinat Zayed

From Abu Dhabi follow Hwy E11 west and, just before Tarif, point your wheels south on Hwy E45 towards Madinat Zayed. This small town is the administrative centre of the Al Dhafra region, which makes up about two-thirds of Abu Dhabi emirate. It’s usually little more than a pit stop for visitors, but people arrive here in droves come December for the hugely popular Al Dhafra Festival. Over 11 days, this event celebrates Emirati customs and traditions with camel races, a camel beauty pageant and other competitions involving falcons, classic cars, Arabian horses and salukis (Arabian dogs) along with heritage activities and a traditional souq and food.

Tiwal Liwa Hotel in the Liwa Desert © Mhardelaben / Shutterstock

Shams 1

With an eye towards a post-oil future and a new commitment to shrink its carbon footprint, the oil-rich emirate has made huge strides on renewable energy. Just south of Madinat Zayed, you’ll pass by Shams 1 (‘Sun’ 1), a 100-megawatt concentrated solar power plant spread across 2.5 sq km. It has harnessed rays since 2013 and now generates enough energy for 20,000 households, moving toward Abu Dhabi’s goal of creating 7% of its power via renewable energy by 2020. If you have time for a side trip, follow your GPS to the Tiwal Liwa Hotel, a fort-like luxe pile sitting in splendid isolation on a rise some 11km east of Hwy E45. Even if you’re not spending the night, it’s a nice spot for lunch or a cold juice.

View over Rub Al Khali Desert – Empty Quarter © Mhardelaben / Shutterstock

Liwa Oasis

From the hotel it’s about 60km to Mezairaa, the commercial gateway to the Liwa Oasis. This is the ancestral homeland of the Bani Yas, the Bedouin tribe that engendered the ruling families of both Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Some 300 years ago, their forebears began cultivating dates and trading with other tribes in this crescent-shaped oasis with dozens of nearby villages. This network stretches along Hwy E90 over 100km between Umm Hisin in the west and Hamim in the east. A fun time to visit is during the Liwa Date Festival in July, which elevates the humble fruit to cult status (don’t sweat; events are held inside air-conditioned tents).

A car driving on the dunes © Katiekk / Shutterstock

Moreeb Dune

From Mezairaa, drive about 30km south to the shapely 300m high and 1.6km long Tel Moreeb, one of the tallest sand dunes in the world. Consider stopping at Dhafeer Fort on the way there – it’s one of several restored centuries-old defensive forts tucked among the dunes. Although Tel Moreeb translates as ‘scary hill’, the massive sand pile actually looks quite peaceful, despite its steep slope. Locals like to drive up to the top in their 4x4s, but it’s also possible to climb – just pack plenty of sunscreen, water and a hat. Those who brave the trek will be rewarded with a sublime panorama that extends across the unmarked border into Saudi Arabia. Just plop down and savour the mystical views and interplay of shadow and light, ideally at sunset.

Gate to the Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort Hotel in Abu Dhabi © Philip Lange / Shutterstock

Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort

Aside from a star-lidded night in a desert camp, the most beautiful place to hang your hat in the Empty Quarter is Qasr Al Sarab, a dune-cradled luxury resort that’ll move you even when standing still. A nearby desert locale doubled as the desert backdrop for much of Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015). The resort too, whose towers and turrets mimic the grandeur of a desert fortress, exudes an otherworldly feel. Luxury is taken very seriously here: think villas with private plunge pool, four restaurants and a fine spa. There’s also a long menu of activities and excursions, including sunset walks, sand boarding, camel treks and trips to ancient forts.

Car collection at the Emirates National Auto Museum in Abu Dhabi © Philip Lange / Shutterstock

Emirates National Auto Museum

Tearing yourself away from Qasr Al Sarab is hard, especially considering the sparse 150km of road facing you on your way to the next stop. It’s worth it though – the kooky Emirates National Auto Museum is a giant roadside pyramid that shelters around 200 cars from the eclectic private collection of Sheikh Hamad Bin Hamdan Al Nahyan. This collection includes racing cars, prototypes, military vehicles and off-road classics.

Among the highlights: the seven Mercedes Benz 500 SELs, custom-painted in the colours of the rainbow, which garnered their eccentric collector the nickname ‘Rainbow Sheikh’. But his ‘biggest’ obsession seems to be with monster trucks. Parked outside is his pride and joy: a replica 1950s Dodge Power Wagon scaled up eight times the size of the original (housing a four-bedroom apartment).

From the museum, it’s only another 40km before Abu Dhabi’s skyline comes back into view. The 500km route could theoretically be done in a very long day, but for a more memorable experience, plan to spend the night. If you don’t venture off road, the trip can be managed in a regular passenger car and also be followed clockwise. Petrol stations are surprisingly scarce, so make sure you’re not ‘runnin’ on empty’ in the Empty Quarter!

If safaris are the stuff of dreams for many travellers, then Elizabeth Gordon has been living that dream for her entire life.

Born in Kenya, she spent much of her childhood exploring Africa with her mother Marcia, who spent decades building up an encyclopaedic, first-hand knowledge of the continent’s best lodges. After Elizabeth had gained hands-on experience of running a high-end camp herself in Namibia, the pair joined forces to found Extraordinary Journeys, a multi-award-winning safari company that creates custom-made tours of Africa and elsewhere.

Lonely Planet asked her what it’s like to be part of a pioneering mother-daughter team, where she would go for a money-no-object trip, and how tour operators can play a role in protecting Africa’s wildlife.

Over the years, Elizabeth has explored many corners of Africa by water, land and air © Elizabeth Gordon

Where was your last trip?

I went to Kenya to explore the northern territories. We took a helicopter all the way to Lake Turkana. I was also in the Masai Mara and ended with beach time on the island of Lamu, which is one of my favourite getaways. I love combining beach and culture, and Lamu is a very bohemian, off-the-beaten-path experience.

Where is your next trip?

I’m intrigued by this trip to Chad to Zakouma National Park, or Ethiopia to the Omo Valley. I love remote places where most people don’t go. I like delving deeper into Africa, like my trip to Lake Turkana. It felt so special to be able to witness a place that few people see. The people who live in these areas are so untouched by our society.

I also love wildlife. Zakouma is so hard to get to and nobody thinks of Chad as a wildlife destination, but Zakouma has great game. And the company I am talking to about the Omo Valley works with the local community to create a unique, authentic experience.

Marcia and the then four-year-old Elizabeth, left, at the train station in Mombasa, Kenya, in 1985 © Elizabeth Gordon

What is your first travel-related memory?

Since my family owned a tour operating company in Kenya, I’ve travelled my whole life. As a child, I remember shuttling back and forth between Nairobi and Paris with my mum.

However, one of my first real travel-related memories was from the summer my family spent in Taiwan when I was six years old. It was exotic for me. I knew Kenya, but Taiwan was a very different experience. It was the first time I wondered, ‘What is this going to be like?’ I remember that thought so clearly in the cab on the way to the airport.

Aisle or window seat?

Window seat. I like to lean against the window and look out. I usually fall asleep and nobody wakes me up. I love it.

Elizabeth and Marcia today: would you be brave enough to go into business with your mum? © Elizabeth Gordon

What are the benefits and challenges of working in a mother-daughter team?

Benefits: you get to spend a lot of time with your mom. There’s a level of trust that we always have the best interests of the other at heart. It’s not just about what’s best for her, or best for me, it’s about what’s best for us. In our case, my mom takes a lot of joy in seeing me succeed. This is a company we built together; it just feels nice, secure and safe.

Challenges: sometimes, you don’t want your mom to be your business partner, you want her to be your mom. And it’s hard to hold each other accountable sometimes because it’s your mom and you don’t want to be mad at your mom, and vice versa.

What, in your experience, tends to surprise your guests most about Africa?

It depends on the country, but guests always think there are going to be bugs and diseases, and Africa’s a scary place. Guests are always surprised by how sophisticated the cities are, but, of course, certain parts of Africa are very wild. The people are friendly and the experience when you’re in camp is magical. Safari is such a unique trip. Guests are amazed at just how luxurious a tented camp can be. They think they’re camping, and then they realise, they’re not camping at all…

Helicopter safaris offer a unique perspective on Africa’s landscape © Elizabeth Gordon

If money were no object, what is your dream safari itinerary?

Kenya is still my dream trip. I would take a helicopter safari again, but I would spend more time in Lake Turkana. I would also love a walking safari from Ol Malo, situated on the northern edge of the Laikipia Plateau, down to Lewa Conservancy, and then spending time at Lewa. I’d love to do the hike down there. Ethiopia would also be an amazing hiking experience.

Of the destinations ‘out of Africa’, hiking Ladakh in India is a dream. A non-hiking dream safari is seeing the lemurs in Madagascar.

Of the many experiences offered by Extraordinary Journeys, do you have a personal favourite?

I love the helicopter safaris… Microlights (an aeroplane, capable of flight in the same way as any other) is an exhilarating experience. I obviously love the walking safaris. A really good walking safari is so much fun. I always feel more connected to nature when I’m walking; you just look at things differently. Biking is also a really fun experience.

Elizabeth still gets a thrill from seeing elephants in the wild © Elizabeth Gordon

Can you tell us about your most memorable wildlife encounter?

For me, my most memorable wildlife encounter was the first time I saw an elephant on foot. I was 12 years old and I was surprised by how close we were to them. Elephants are quiet and my heart was pounding so fast to be that close to such a big animal.

If you could see one extinct or even mythical creature, what would it be and why?

I would love to see a Brachiosaurus. I just love their long necks and they seemed like very gentle creatures. They remind me of giraffes. Who wouldn’t want to meet one?

How can safari companies support sustainability?

For starters, we need to make it economically viable to protect the wilderness. Thus, we choose to work exclusively with partners on the ground who follow strict guidelines to protect wilderness and work closely with local communities. It’s about committing to working with the parks and the local people to ensure these areas are protected in the long run. They can’t afford to cut corners, which is why the camps we use aren’t cheap.

Extraordinary Journeys works with partners like Tongabezi Safari Lodge, Zambia, which follow strict policies to protect the environment © Tongabezi Safari Lodge

What else can be done to protect Africa’s wildlife?

We can make sure local people are invested in protecting Africa’s wildlife. This can be achieved by hiring locally, educating the schools in the area and ensuring that it’s economically valuable. We need them to feel the need to protect their heritage because if we don’t get their buy-in, then we’ve lost the battle because it’s their country.

One of the biggest issues is human-wildlife conflict. We need to protect the land because animals need space and once people move in on the land, it’s hard to take it back.

Do you have any travel habits or rituals?

I try to exhaust myself by staying up all night before a flight so I can sleep on the plane.

What has been your most challenging travel experience?

My most challenging travel experience was when my husband ‘forgot’ to organise the end of our trip in Malawi. We didn’t know where to go so we had to hitchhike all the way back to Lilongwe. It really felt like there was only one car per day in the country. Now, I find the experience hilarious. It’s such a good story.

Learning to go with the flow makes travel a lot more fun, says Elizabeth © Elizabeth Gordon

What is your best travel souvenir?

I am usually a very bad souvenir buyer, but my best souvenirs are ragdolls from Malawi that my husband and I bought to give to all our friends who have babies. They’re so cute though, so we’ve kept them all. Now, we have all these little baby dolls on our bed…

What is the best piece of travel advice you’ve received?

When things go wrong, it’s your decision how to react to it. You can’t control things; the only thing you can control is your reaction.

Quick, an asteroid is going to hit the earth in one week! Which is the one travel dream you’d rush to fulfil?

Freediving with dolphins in Mozambique with expert freedivers Hanli Prinsloo and Peter Marshall (and being adopted by them).

What advice would you give a first-time traveller?

Say ‘Yes!’ and be open to things. Don’t try to control everything; just let things happen. Trust me, travel (and life) is more fun that way.

Find out more about Extraordinary Journeys and follow Elizabeth on Instagram @babethogordon.

More ‘Meet a traveller’ interviews

• Meet a traveller: Alastair Humphreys, pioneering ‘microadventurer’
• Meet a traveller: Michael James Wong, globetrotting yogi
• Meet a traveller: Felicity Aston, Antarctic explorer

The West Bank isn’t just about politics, and anyone visiting will find some thoroughly positive headlines: a treasure trove of gorgeous nature trails, fascinating ancient ruins and surprisingly lively nightlife. While military checkpoints and ongoing tension can complicate logistics, the region’s relative security has translated into a boom in Palestinian tourism; in fact, it topped the United Nations World Tourism Organization’s list of fastest growing destinations for travellers in 2017.

The West Bank is easily accessible from Jerusalem via a network of shared taxis, known as servees. Start off in Ramallah or Bethlehem, where, beyond the Holy Land tourist hotspots, you’ll find farm-to-table restaurants, cheeky hotels and restored ancient sites that celebrate the Palestinian West Bank in all its many complexities.

Banksy’s Hotel in Bethlehem boasts the worst view in the world © Shira Rubin / Lonely Planet

Walled-Off (Banksy) Hotel, Bethlehem

Designed by the evasive street graffiti artist, the Banksy Hotel boasts the ‘worst view in the world’: it directly faces the towering, controversial 10m-high concrete barrier wall that physically separates the West Bank from Israel, often a flashpoint in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Banksy designed the hotel’s nine rooms, replete with plush leather couches, tacky red velvet drapes and bleak oil paintings that evoke the out-of-place British colonial outposts of yore. The presidential suite is ‘equipped with everything a corrupt head of state would need’, from to a four-person hot tub to a well-stocked tiki bar. The Walled-Off Hotel’s lobby bar is a draw for guests and non-guests alike, lured in by afternoon tea or classic cocktails set to a maudlin soundtrack of a self-playing baby grand piano.

La Grotta, Ramallah

Like Bethlehem, internationally influenced Ramallah is decidedly pro-alcohol and pro-partying. As the de facto capital, and the hub of the Palestinian government and economy, Ramallah is the centre of liberal, secular Palestinian life and has several sophisticated rooftop cocktail bars. But La Grotta, a bar owned by a local musician and on the first floor of a traditional house in Ramallah’s Old City, is the destination of choice for those seeking a casual, more authentic night out. La Grotta is the watering hole for many of the West Bank’s intelligentsia and musicians, some of whom come equipped with traditional Arab oud guitars and goblet-shaped derbekke drums, ready to break into live performance at any moment.

Head for the hills outside Bethlehem and settle in at Hosh Jasmin © Shira Rubin / Lonely Planet

Hosh Jasmin, Beit Jala

A rustic restaurant planted next to a family-owned organic farm, Hosh Jasmin is a pastoral retreat just outside tourist-heavy Bethlehem. It was started in 2012 by a Palestinian filmmaker who studied farming in Oregon before returning home to refurbish this 1943 farmhouse. Relax in the outdoor space with a view over the surrounding hills and order sumac-spiced hummus and homemade arak (an anise-based spirit popular throughout the Levant). Part of the Jasmin experience is joining in and meeting other ‘Hosh’ groupies on the lectures, hiking tours or yoga classes that regularly take place here against the background of ruggedly picturesque olive groves.

Ka’abar, Beit Jala

Ka’abar is an old-school cavernous hole-in-the-wall dishing out chicken in a suburb just outside of Bethlehem, near the Municipality Building on Beit Jala St. While its decor is definitely no-frills, Ka’abar is the home of perhaps the best roasted chicken in all the land and has long been a culinary pilgrimage destination for Palestinian hipsters, Bethlehem University students and travellers lucky enough to have heard about the insanely tasty charred bird on offer here. Few of the staff speak English, but there’s really no need; just point to one of the skewers out on the street-side stone grill and gesture to indicate whether you want a whole or a half portion. The chicken comes with a delicious array of fresh salads, spicy chillies, green olives, homemade hummus and tahini, and heavenly whipped garlic sauce. You can also opt for the takeaway version, as former Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon did – he frequently drove by Ka’abar for his chicken fix whenever working in nearby Jerusalem.

Try locally sourced modern Palestinian dishes inside Hosh Al Syrian’s stone courtyard © Hosh Al Syrian

Hosh Al Syrian Guesthouse, Bethlehem

Fadi Kattan managed world-renowned hotels in Paris before returning to his hometown of Bethlehem to launch this charming guesthouse-cum-gastronomic-restaurant, Hosh Al Syrian. This low-key spot is nestled in an enchanting, stone-walled courtyard that belonged to Bethlehem’s once-sizeable Assyrian population, a mostly Christian ethnic minority whose numbers over the past century have dwindled in the region because of economic woes and sectarian conflict. Dinner at the reservations-only Fauda (meaning ‘chaos’ in Arabic) restaurant is a privileged entry into modern Palestinian cuisine. The entire menu is sourced from the nearby farmers’ market and includes succulent dishes such as lamb with pomegranate reduction or roasted peach kunafeh (a warm, syrupy cheese-based pastry) expertly paired with locally produced wines.

Snowbar, Ein Musbah

Despite its name, Snowbar has absolutely nothing to do with the white stuff and is actually only open in summer. Its name translates to ‘pine nut’ in Arabic, and the leafy forest that surrounds the café provides a cool breeze and refreshing respite from the congestion of the nearby Ramallah. For more than two decades, Snowbar has been a favourite among the Palestinian elite, NGO workers and international expats. As the sun sets, take your Palestinian beer poolside and gaze at the rolling hills and wildflowers, but don’t be surprised if the outdoor deck turns into a festive dance party carrying on well into the night.

Take the cable car and hike amongst the trails at the Mount of Temptation © Gosiek-B / Getty Images

Mount of Temptation Cable Car, Jericho

If you’re looking for a laidback escape in a welcoming, village-style atmosphere, head toward Jericho, where a cable car will deliver you to the Mount of Temptation, the location where Jesus was tempted by the devil, according to the Bible. Spend the day working up a sweat on well-marked hiking trails overlooking palm tree plantations, which lead to an ancient monastery. When you’re ready for a break, head to the alfresco modern Palestinian dining institution known as The Sultan and indulge on delectable grilled meats and Palestinian tapas, which highlight Jericho’s year-round production of colourful produce and citrus fruits, and make you feel like you’re a world away from the bustle of Jerusalem or Ramallah.

Al Sharqi Turkish Hammam, Al Bireh

In the Ramallah suburb of Al Bireh, you’ll have the chance to take part in a Palestinian cultural experience that visitors herded on and off tour buses never get to see. Al Sharqi Turkish Hammam is decorated with Palestinian textiles and is a modern rendition of the 17th-century multi-room bathhouses, which were dotted all of the region during Ottoman-era rule. Luckily for weary travellers, Turkish hammams have been making a comeback with the recent rise of wellness tourism, and Ramallah – always attuned to international trends – is eager to participate and embrace its own historically rooted versions. Beyond the various hot and cold relaxing rooms, the cherry on top is the full-body loofah massage, in which an attendant will scrub away the grime and stress you’ve accumulated while exploring.

La Vie Cafe, Ramallah

La Vie is a farm-to-table cafe within a few minutes’ walk of the central Manara Sq of downtown Ramallah. The menu is built around the available veggies harvested on the organic rooftop garden and thus places a premium on seasonal, fresh salads and vegetarian mains. Be sure to stop by on a Saturday or Sunday when the chef prepares special traditional dishes such as the famous fuul bi-laban, fava beans with yoghurt sauce, or khubeza, a dish made of a wild local green known as mallow.

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The Masai Mara National Reserve is 1510 sq km of open rolling grasslands that extend northward from Tanzania’s Serengeti. It reaches its pinnacle every July and August when over a million wildebeest and herd animals migrate here in search of lush grass, only to turn south for greener pastures in October and November.

A natural wonder

The Great Migration is the largest movement of animals on the planet. Numbers vary annually, but it’s estimated that herd sizes can reach 1.5 million wildebeest, not to mention just under a million zebras, topi and eland. Waves of zebras arrive first, mowing through the tall, coarse grass stems that shot up during the rains, and exposing the green leafy grasses preferred by the wildebeests following behind them.

While the exact route changes every year, the herds will inevitably have to cross the Mara and Talek rivers. Upon reaching the banks, the herbivore ranks stall hesitantly, knowing full well that Nile crocodiles lie waiting. While there is safety in numbers, the herd will be thinned as thousands are eaten, crushed or drowned in the crossings. Those that do make it to the other side are not in the clear. Lions wait in ambush, with scavengers such as hyenas and jackals eying good pickings. There are also cheetahs hiding out in the short grass plains, and leopards silently waiting in the treetops.

Kills are common during the migration, especially in the early morning, late afternoon and during the shelter of night. But no matter how many safari videos you may have already seen, nothing can prepare you for this raw display of nature. The hairs on the back of your neck stand at attention, and an emotional mix of awe and sympathy takes hold. Often the prey is not aware that it is about to lose its life. Other times, the struggle to survive is fierce and even inspiring. But when death does take hold in the wild, it is anything but a pretty sight.

Watching wildlife

The Sekenani Gate in the east leads into the rolling Ngama Hills, dominated by stands of thorny acacias that are often picked clean by giraffes. Plenty of animals beyond the seasonal migrants can be seen along the side tracks including warthogs, elephants, buffaloes, hartebeests and gazelles. Troops of vervet monkeys and olive baboons are also commonly seen fanning out to forage. Less common are the dik-diks, a tiny species of antelope that hides out in thickets. Even rarer is the endangered black rhino, a few dozen of which can be found in the south-eastern corner of the reserve.

The Mara boasts no less than 540 different species of birds. Huge vultures can easily be spotted wheeling in the thermals or gorging on the remains of a kill. Large grassland birds range from the familiar common ostrich and hornbill to the lesser-known secretary bird, a large eagle-crane hybrid that hunts on foot. The skies are home to 57 types of raptors, the most famous of which is the African fish eagle. If you’re an avid birder hoping to expand your checklist, the Mara has plenty of colourful specialists including yellow-mantled widowbirds, purple grenadiers and cinnamon-breasted rock buntings.

An uncertain future

The delicate balance between economic development and environmental conservation is always difficult to properly manage. Yet there are times when personal and political ambitions appear to trump collective reason and sound logic. At the time of writing, Tanzanian President Jakaya Kikwete seems determined to build a new highway through the northern reaches of the Serengeti in order to foster development in rural and highly marginalized communities.

While his development ambitions seem admirable, there is scientific evidence to suggest that the proposed road would negatively impact the migration. Scientists, conservation groups, the Kenyan government and Unesco alike are loudly protesting the construction, and have even proposed viable alternative routes that swing south of the Serengeti. But it remains to be seen whether President Kikwete will bow to foreign pressure or follow through on a campaign promise.

Practicalities

Domestic flights and private charters touch down at the various airstrips in the Mara. By vehicle, it’s a bumpy 270km ride from Nairobi as the tarmac disappears after Narok. Self-drive safaris are permitted, though the vast majority of travellers prefer to arrange guided drives through their accommodation. All budgets are catered for in the Mara, from budget camping trips to all-inclusive luxury lodges. Advanced reservations are highly recommended, and absolutely essential during the migration.