As the home of a world-renowned university, Oxford is famous as being a place for readers, writers and thinkers. It’s little wonder then that the city has spawned some of the biggest names in literature and has inspired many famous works of fiction. From JRR Tolkien and Philip Pullman to CS Lewis and Lewis Carroll, Oxford has long been the stomping ground of the literary elite, with footsteps left for visitors to trace.

Oxford’s dreaming spires have provided plenty of inspiration for writers over the years © Eurasia Press / Getty Images

Lewis Carroll

Carroll’s most well known work, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, came about when he was a lecturer at Christ Church College on St Aldate’s Street. While teaching mathematics, Lewis Carroll (real name Charles Dodgson) befriended the college dean and his family. One day, out on a boat on the River Isis, Carroll told Alice, the dean’s daughter, a tale about a girl called Alice who has adventures down a rabbit hole – and so began his fantastical story. You can go punting on the very same river today.

See where your imagination takes you as you punt along the river in Oxford © Visit Britain / Getty Images

Several other Oxford locations have Alice connections. Pop into the Cathedral Garden of Christ Church College and you’ll find a little door that is said to have inspired Alice’s door to Wonderland, while inside the college look out for the brass andirons shaped like two ladies with long necks, thought to have given Carroll the idea for Alice’s neck to lengthen when she eats a mushroom. In the Museum of Natural History you can inspect the world’s most complete remains of a dodo, just like the one Alice encounters in Wonderland. For fans wanting souvenirs, head to Alice’s Shop on St Aldate’s, housed in the building where the real-life Alice used to buy her sweets.

JRR Tolkien

The fantasy author JRR Tolkien held numerous roles at Oxford University. He was a fellow and professor of Anglo-Saxon studies at Pembroke College before becoming the same of English Language and Literature at Merton College. You can visit both institutions today – look out for an old hexagonal stone table in the gardens of Merton College as it’s where Tolkien often wrote down story ideas.

There are lots of artefacts and places in Oxford said to have crept into Tolkien’s works. The Ashmolean Museum has a collection of Posie rings, solid gold finger rings with inscriptions on them, the basis for the One Ring in The Lord of the Rings. The Bodleian Library’s collections of old legends and mythical works sparked ideas for plotlines, while its most iconic section, the Radcliffe Camera, was fictionalised as the Temple of Armenelos in The Silmarillion.

One of Tolkien’s fantasy buildings was based on the beautiful Radcliffe Camera © S-F / Shutterstock

You can also visit Wolvercote Cemetery, the resting site of Tolkien and his wife Edith, if you walk north of the city centre along Banbury Road. Their grave has a modest stone bearing the names Lúthien and Beren, referring to the elf maiden, Lúthien, who gives up her immortality for a mortal warrior, Beren, in another of Tolkien’s tales.

CS Lewis

Tolkien and CS Lewis were both members of a literary discussion group called the Inklings which would regularly meet, drink and chat at The Eagle and Child, a pub dating back to the mid-17th century. These days you can still see a handwritten note to the landlord pinned up above the fireplace. Signed by members of the Inklings, it reads: ‘The undersigned, having just partaken of your ham, have drunk your health.’

The Inklings’ ham-appreciating signed note can still be seen in The Eagle and Child pub © Julian Love / Getty Images

CS Lewis was a fellow and tutor in English Literature at Magdalen College for 29 years. Take a tour of the college to access the cloisters where you’ll see carvings of animals on the pillars which are thought to have inspired the passage in Lewis’ The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe where Aslan brings frozen animals back to life. You should also be able to see the chapel, where Lewis attended weekday services.

For more Oxford connections to that first book in The Chronicles of Narnia series, opposite the entrance to the University Church of St Mary the Virgin on St Mary’s Passage look out for an ornate door. Its heavy wood is etched with intricate carvings, and a symbol in the centre resembles the face of a wise lion. This is the ‘Narnia Door’, the influence for Lewis’ wardrobe door through which the Pevensie children stepped into the magical land for the first time.

Philip Pullman

More so than Lewis, Tolkien and Carroll, Pullman explicitly uses Oxford as the setting for many of his stories. Pullman studied English at Exeter College and has stayed in and around the city ever since. In 1986, he returned to Oxford University in a teaching post at Westminster College, which he undertook alongside writing fiction, publishing the acclaimed His Dark Materials trilogy between 1995 and 2000.

The Covered Market is a favourite haunt for heroine Lyra and her friends in Northern Lights, the first book in the trilogy. Just a minute’s walk away from the market is Exeter College on which Lyra’s home, Jordan College, is based. If you go in for a look around, you may spot the attic window which Lyra climbs out of. Every month, special Philip Pullman tours take place to show visitors even more sights from the books.

The Botanic Garden plays a key role in Pullman’s His Dark Materials finale © Alexander Jung / Getty Images

Anyone’s who’s followed Lyra and her male counterpart Will’s adventures to the end of the novels will be keenly aware of the importance of Oxford’s Botanic Garden. Fans will want to make a beeline for the bench at the back of the gardens with ‘Lyra + Will’ carved on it – no spoilers but its role in The Amber Skyglass, last book in the trilogy, is of huge significance.

Harry Potter

Though neither JK Rowling nor her creation Harry Potter have an explicit connection with Oxford, the city starred in many of the movie adaptations of the best-selling series of books and there are three main locations that die-hard Potterheads should visit.

The Bodleian Library played a big part in the film franchise. Its Duke Humfrey’s Library was chosen as the location for Hogwarts Library in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone. If you sign up for a full library tour, you’ll be taken to see the sprawling corridors of floor-to-ceiling shelves, each packed with aged books and manuscripts.

Likewise, a Bodleian tour will give you access to the Divinity School, which features in the first four films. It was used as Hogwarts Infirmary, the room where Professor McGonagall teaches Ron how to dance, the room where Harry and Hermione use the time turner and many more pivotal scenes in the series.

The medieval Divinity School in the Bodleian Library had a starring role in several Harry Potter movies © Jon Bower at Apexphotos / Getty Images

New College courtyard, with its twisted trees and ancient stones, features in Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. The cloisters here were used as Hogwarts’ outdoor walkways, and when you see how grand and official they are in real life, it’s easy to see why they were chosen as a film set. You can go on a self-guided tour around the college for a small fee.

The staircase Harry sees on his first visit to Hogwarts is actually the Bodley Tower staircase in Christ Church College. This college’s cloisters were used for the hallway scenes in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, where Hermione talks to Harry about his family’s past and how he’s meant to be a seeker in Quidditch.

Lastly, while not used for filming, the dining hall in Christ Church College served as inspiration for the Great Hall. With bare walls, long dark tables, portraits of past masters and church-like windows, the similarities are obvious. A Christ Church tour will give you access to both of these sights.

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Road-tripping is one of the most liberating ways to travel – it’s just you, your vehicle and the open road. Having said that, because it’s just you, your vehicle and the open road, if things go wrong, your adventure can swiftly arrive at a dead end.

To help you steer clear of cul-de-sacs, we asked our Lonely Planet staff and Trailblazers to share some of their road trip fails so that you can anticipate potential pitfalls and manoeuvre around them.

Don’t let technology lead you astray © kavram / Shutterstock

A scenic route in the wrong direction

While on a self-drive safari in Namibia, I unwittingly exited a petrol station onto a different road than I’d entered from. I happily trundled westward through mile upon mile of brilliant landscapes before my satnav unexpectedly suggested I take a rather a rough-looking dirt trail. I soon realised that I hadn’t been on the B1 north to Waterberg Plateau Park, but the B2 headed west to the coast. Before making a U-turn to avoid an epic corrective detour, I pulled off the tarmac and reprogrammed my satnav. Thankfully, my mistake was a scenic one and didn’t cost me more than an hour.

Pro tip: When road-tripping in Namibia (or any other remote destinations), always programme your satnav to allow for U-turns. If you don’t, a wrong turn may result in a 1000km detour.

Matt Phillips, Destination Editor for sub-Saharan Africa. Follow his tweets @Go2MattPhillips.

A simple 2WD isn’t going to make it over this terrain © Olena Tur / Shutterstock

Off-road adventures aren’t for every vehicle

We were driving in Cappadocia, Turkey, searching for a trailhead when we came across a soft, sandy and exceedingly steep track. We drove down gingerly, wondering even as we did so if we’d make it back up again in our cheap hire car. After our hike, our fears were realised: we couldn’t get enough traction to climb back up the track. We coaxed the engine, shifted stones and debris out of the way and tried a few expletives for good measure. Eventually, we took everything but the driver out of the car and managed to grind out just enough momentum to get going.

Pro tip: Don’t always go for the cheapest option; think about the terrain and hire a suitable vehicle to avoid the false economy of having to call out help.

Kia Abdullah, Lonely Planet Trailblazer and blogger at atlasandboots.com. Follow her tweets @atlasandboots.

Big adventures call for even bigger vehicles – just make sure you read the instruction manual first! © Yaya Ernst / Shutterstock

Campervan capers in Canada

To caveat this, I had never driven a campervan before! Our first stop en route to the Rockies was a supermarket to fuel up on Eggos frozen waffles. Unused to driving a 25-foot-long vehicle, I parked in the first available space without thinking. A commotion of car horns and a tailback quickly followed and I realised I was preventing the people of Calgary from doing their weekly shop – and reversing a campervan with an angry audience isn’t fun.

If that wasn’t bad enough, the next morning near Banff, we awoke in what I can only describe as a fridge on wheels. My friend was inside her sleeping bag, wrapped in blankets and wearing all her jumpers. We’d neglected to turn the heating on and left a window open in minus-five degrees celsius Canada.

Pro tip: Pay attention to the mandatory instruction video played before renting – they make you endure it for a reason! Most importantly, it teaches you how to empty the toilet like a pro.

Joe Davis, Online Marketing Coordinator. Follow his tweets @joedavis_.

Driving in Australia presents unique challenges, from navigating outback terrain to avoiding hitch-hiking critters © ronnybas / Shutterstock

Watch for unwanted stowaways (especially of the eight-legged variety)

I once spent six weeks road-tripping in Australia from Sydney up to Cairns with another Brit and a couple of Canadians, so space in the car was at an absolute premium. One day, as the two Canadian girls and I were unpacking some stuff from the boot at the beach, we came across an unwanted passenger – the biggest huntsman spider you’ve ever seen in your life crawling across our Esky cooler. Honestly, I don’t think three people have ever moved so fast and even a couple of burly Aussies we tried to enlist for help refused to go anywhere near the car!

Pro tip: When travelling through Australia, be prepared to come across things that utterly terrify you. Oh, and make sure you don’t leave your car boot open so unwanted critters can sneak in in the first place.

Macca Sherifi, Lonely Planet Trailblazer and blogger at anadventurousworld.com. Follow his tweets @anadvworld.

There are a few essential elements to a road trip – fuel is definitely one of them! © oneinchpunch / Shutterstock

Penny-pinching predicaments on the Pacific Highway, California

Gas is pricey in America. So whilst road-tripping through California, my then boyfriend and I opted to fill our gaudy rented Mazda with pay-as-you-go gas and were determined to return it without one drop of fuel in the tank. Ending the trip in San Francisco, we resorted to driving back and forth across the Golden Gate Bridge until the needle was on empty. Unfortunately, we’d underestimated the traffic jams this detour would involve, and had to coast the car down (and subsequently up) the city’s famous hills. The engine cut out an agonising centimetre from the rental car parking lot.

Pro tip: Spending that extra $10 on gas is worth it to avoid the stress and anxiety of breaking down on the way to return your hire car.

Emily Frost, Social Communications Coordinator. Follow her on Instagram @frostyem.

Where local holidays and family travel are concerned, you’ll want to factor in some extra time for your journey © Youproduction / Shutterstock

Travel in public holidays takes its toll

Our destination, Dinan in Brittany, was only a few hours’ drive from Le Havre, so we spent the morning on the beach and decided to set off later than planned. Bad idea: it was a public holiday in France and the roads were incredibly busy. We queued for a distant toll booth for nearly three hours. Our eldest was in desperate need of a toilet stop and the baby was crying. When we finally reached the toll, we paid the charge (a mere €1.10), sped on to the nearest rest stop, and ran in to join yet another queue, this time for the toilets.

Pro tip: Allow extra time for travel during local holidays! Queuing at a toll booth is not unusual, but around public holidays it can add hours to a journey.

Claire Naylor, Senior Editor. Follow her tweets @RoadTripJones.

Despite these long stretches of desert road, don’t be tempted to put pedal to the metal © Pi-Lens / Shutterstock

Speeding tickets and some top-notch Mexican food

Midway through a frenetic attempt to traverse the US in a rented pickup truck with no money and less time, a friend and I found ourselves hurtling through the Chihuahuan Desert one night in the direction of El Paso. Our speed hadn’t gone unnoticed and within minutes a Texas Ranger – obligatory moustache and revolver present – had pulled us over. We informed him we were going to El Paso. ‘Why are ya’ll headed there?’ he asked.

It was a good question. In truth, we didn’t know why we were going to El Paso, we were just heading west. But in my mind that sounded suspicious, illogical. ‘To get a burrito,’ I replied. I’m sure the idea of arresting me there and then flickered through the officer’s mind, but after a tense few seconds, he erupted in laughter. He let us off with a warning for speeding and, to top it off, recommended his favourite burrito place in El Paso.

Pro tip: No matter how tight your timescale, never speed… unless you’re in need of some good recommendations for Mexican food!

Jack Palfrey, Assistant Editor. Follow his tweets @JPalfers.

Traffic can be a challenge in San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas © Lucy Brown – Loca4motion / Getty

Outsmart potential outlaws with your knowledge of the local language

I was travelling towards the Mexican highland town of San Cristóbal de las Casas when we hit absolute gridlock. But why? ‘Banditos,’ we heard a driver say. If I didn’t know better, I’d suspect that translated as bandits. Sure enough, news reached us that the road was being blocked by Mexican bandits! I squealed nervously, wondering if this was how we’d meet our grizzly end.

After two hours driving at a snail’s pace, we reached the blockade. These weren’t scary, knife-wielding outlaws; they were 14-year-old kids wreaking havoc. They were demanding a fee to pass, but with a few words of Spanish at our disposal, we argued our way through.

Pro tip: My advice for road-tripping abroad is to have a bit of the local lingo at your fingertips. Ours certainly got us out of a sticky situation!

Chloe Gunning, Lonely Planet Trailblazer and blogger at wanderlustchloe.com. Follow her tweets @wanderlustchloe.

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Having living all over the world, Lonely Planet Local Analia Glogowski struggled to plant her roots until she reached Brussels, a place she finally feels she can hang her hat and shout ‘baby I’m home’.

As a lifestyle and travel blogger, photographer and an assistant in the European Parliament, Analia loves roaming her adopted city looking for the coolest places to wine, dine and recline.

Delver a little deeper and Brussels reveals parks, art and architectural masterpieces like the Château Royal de Laeken © Analia Glogowski / Lonely Planet

When I have friends in town… I make it my mission to show them that Brussels offers much more than the Grand Place, beer and fries. From underground gigs to pop-up park festivals and hip rooftop bars, Brussels always astounds, so I might take them to a trone concert in an old unoccupied house. If it’s summer, we would head to an Apéro Urbain, a music-filled picnic-turned-party.

A typical weekend involves… buying groceries at the street market on Place Flagey before heading for viennoiseries at Charli, the best bakery in Ste Catherine. If the weather is right, the weekend calls for a gargantuan brunch at La Fabrique in the Egmond Park, which sells all manner of eggs and the most devilish sugar pie you’ll taste. I’ll walk it off hunting for antique treasures at the Place du Jeu-de-Balle Flea Market.

A full plate of seasonal vegetables at Grand Central, Brussels © Analia Glogowski / Lonely Planet

Lunch might mean… meeting friends at Grand Central for a big plate of veggies from the huge seasonal buffet. This usually ends with coffee on the terrace which overlooks Parc Léopold. If we’re feeling famished, we might have truffle fettuccine at Senza Parole, rolled in a giant parmesan wheel for extra decadence.

When I need a caffeine hit… Mok is my first choice, followed by Café Velvet nearby. Both are in the Ste Catherine area and serve premium quality coffee along with healthy vegan nibbles. If I’m in the EU quarter, I’ll pop into Karsmakers on rue de Trêves for a latte and grab a carrot cake to go.

When I’m up for a big night out…I start with an aperitivo at Hotel Le Berger and let the night take me down to Spirito Martini, a former church turned club. Sometimes I hit Jeux d’Hiver, a chalet resto-club in the woods with an eerie forest vibe. And if I’m hankering for some nostalgia, I’ll finish the night at L’Archiduc, to teleport half a century back in time.

The Urban Therapy store in Brussels is great for gift hunters © Analia Glogowski / Lonely Planet

If I’m in the mood to shop… rue Antoine Dansaert is where I go to scour for riches in concept stores like A suivre, Le Magasin, Icon and Vêtue. If I want to buy a gift, Urban Therapy on rue de Flandre has everything from super original terrariums to vodka-infused teas and revamped caps.

When I want to get out of the city… Antwerp is always first on my list. Belgium’s creative heart is a just a 40-minute train ride away and it boasts architectural masterpieces like The Port House by Zaha Hadid, and gastronomic gems like The Jane, plus endless racks of avant-garde fashion.

Founded in 2016, the Millennium Iconoclast Museum of Art (MIMA) showcases hot contemporary art © Analia Glogowski / Lonely Planet

When I want to check out some art… I see what’s on at Tour & Taxis as they often have art fairs and interesting exhibitions. MIMA’s take on contemporary street art also gives me the perfect excuse to stroll along the canal and have coffee in one of the nearby cafés, such as the Walvis.

If the weather calls for a day at the beach… I take a day trip to Ostend or Knokke-Heist for a breezy sunbathing and ice cream galore! I love the tiny striped beach houses dotting the shoreline where locals store their sunshades and sunbeds.

If I’m after regional produce… I usually go to BelgoMarkt or one of the Färm shops around the capital, as they sell locally sourced, sustainable products usually manufactured by small farmers and artisans. To keep their environmental footprint to a minimum, consumers are encouraged to bring their own containers.

Hortense & Humus serves delicate haute vegetarian cuisine © Analia Glogowski / Lonely Planet

For a special occasion… I think award-winning La Villa in the Sky is the place to dine. Overlooking Brussels from the top of a tower, chef Alexandre Dionisio serves a tasting menu to a maximum of 24 guests. For an equally delicate but less pricey option, Hortense & Humus in the Flagey area offers botanical creations paired with exquisite cocktails.

To stock up on chocolate… I go to Pierre Marcolini for a box of truffles du jour, a discovery box with ganache-filled chocolates or the iconic Palets Fins box with caramel-filled treats. If you’re on a budget, you’ll find Dolfin’s delicious scented chocolate bars at most supermarkets. For about 4 euros a bar, you can choose from a wide selection of recipes, including candied orange, caramelised pear and puffed rice.

For cheap eats… I love having a bite at a fritkot, one of the many street kiosks selling fried goods, especially the world-famous Maison Antoine on place Jourdan. The Belgian fries are triple fried in pork fat and a mitraillette (a baguette filled with meat and fries) is a street food must.

Analia enjoying an Aperos Urbains event in Brussels © Analia Glogowski / Lonely Planet

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Whiskey with an ‘e’ is making a comeback thanks to some great bars and distilleries © a_namenko / Getty Images

In Dublin, the Old Jameson Distillery has reopened its doors after an expensive makeover, while Diageo is brewing up a new visitor experience in its old Guinness power plant. Even boxing legend Conor McGregor is muscling in on the action with the anticipated launch of his own brand (trademark issues permitting), appropriately labelled ‘Notorious’.

Budding aficionados can sample the smooth spirit named whiskey (or uisce beatha – the water of life) by monks in the early Middle Ages by visiting these 11 unmissable Irish distilleries and bars.

Enjoy a tour of Teelings, Dublin’s first new distillery in over a century © Vic O’Sullivan / Lonely Planet

Teelings Distillery, Newmarket, Merchants Quay, Dublin

Teeling’s, Dublin’s first new distillery in over 125 years, snuggles into a market square a stone’s throw from Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. Only opened in 2015, their whiskey has yet to mature (it takes a minimum of 3 years and a day to distil Irish whiskey – a day more than its Scottish rival – so will be ready by the end of 2018) but you can still enjoy a tour and a tasting of other Teeling’s products on a visit.

While you’re there

Indulge your ‘water of life’ wonder at the Whiskey Museum on Grafton Street.

Jameson Distillery, Bow Street, Smithsfield, Dublin

Spend 40 minutes catching up on 238 years of whiskey history at the Jameson Distillery’s plush new visitor experience on Bow Street, near Dublin’s city centre. The whiskey ambassadors of this landmark distillery share first-hand experiences of the peaks and troughs of the industry while talking numbers, growth and anecdotes. Afterwards, head to JJ’s Place on the mezzanine floor for a complimentary drink

While you’re there

Walk 10 minutes to The Brazen Head, Dublin’s oldest pub, where many historical figures warmed a bar stool while nursing a whiskey.

Come to Slane for the castle and maybe a concert, stay for the whiskey © Vic O’Sullivan / Lonely Planet

Slane Distillery, County Meath

It’s Slane on the rocks at the legendary castle’s stables-cum-bar-conversion. Unsurprisingly given the estate’s fondness for big-name, outdoor concerts, the whiskey tour is mulled in rock anecdotes from the Rolling Stones to U2, and Kings of Leon lyrics decorate the clubby interior. The tour guide gets everyone into the spirit of things with an encyclopaedic knowledge of the distilling process, from malt sourcing to the flavours from their triple cask whiskey.

While you’re there

Don’t miss Newgrange, a 5000-year-old passage tomb.

The Connacht Whiskey Company, Ballina, County Mayo

Located in a modern building near the banks of the River Moy, the Connacht Distillery is a clean line operation. While the Connacht Whiskey brand is still at fermenting stage, the tour is the real deal. Poitín, a spirit that was traditionally stilled in a small pot (hence the name) and illegal even 20 years ago, is available, along with the distillery’s Straw Boys branded gin.

While you’re there

Charming Killala offers the chance to catch up on some Irish history by delving into its role in the 1798 rebellion.

A good still, like this one at Kilbeggan, is key to a top quality whiskey © Vic O’Sullivan / Lonely Planet

Kilbeggan (Locke’s) Distillery, Kilbeggan, County Westmeath

Kilbeggan Distillery has had a chequered past ever since its groaning water wheel first battled the force of the river Brosna 260 years ago. Shady deals and the execution of the founder’s son for his membership of the United Irishmen back in 1798 are just samples of its illustrious story. These days a ripe biscuit aroma seeps across the open courtyard and through the narrow time-jaded timber nooks, affirming that this is a fully operating distillery. Unlike the shiny brazen stills found elsewhere, Kilbeggan’s giant copper stills are weather-aged with a bright green veneer. Another Cooley-associated company, it produces a malt blend for various brands.

While you’re there

Ireland’s oldest pub, Sean’s Bar in Athlone, is well worth the short detour.

Dingle Distillery, County Kerry

The blue corrugated exterior of Dingle Distillery, Europe’s most westerly, stands firm in its windswept beautiful location. While it’s new to the spirit world, the owners are anything but rookies in the drinks industry, having pioneered Irish craft beer at the porterhouse in Dublin. With two casks produced daily, the accent is on quality not quantity, so instead of a dram expect Dingle Gin and Vodka at the tasting.

While you’re there

Unesco World Heritage Site and Star Wars backdrop Skellig Michael is, weather permitting, a quick drive and boat trip away.

An old warehouse has become home to the Tullamore whiskey tour © Vic O’Sullivan / Lonely Planet

Tullamore Dew, County Offaly

Though the production of Tullamore Dew is in a high-security new plant outside Tullamore, their visitor centre is in the heart of the town in an old whiskey warehouse, and brim full of interesting facts and gadgetry. The part tongue-in-cheek, wholly fascinating tour comes with a lot of effort made to recreate a real distillery feel, from red lighting beneath the ‘malting room’ to simulate coal burning, to the chat over casks at the tasting session.

While you’re there

Admire the giant telescope (once the largest in the world) at Birr Demesne.

Walsh Distillery, County Carlow

With a 650,000 annual bottle capacity, spanking new Walsh Distillery means business. The tour guide encourages visitors to sniff and feel their way through the three steps in the distilling process. The contemporary design of the facility reflects the fact that it’s the first one to be developed in County Carlow in over 200 years, but despite all this sleekness the process is manually controlled. ‘The Irishman Founders Reserve’ rounds off the rolling farmland estate’s distillery tour.

While you’re there

Atmospheric Carlow County Museum gives some great insights into local history.

Unchanged decor and a warm welcome at one of Ireland’s best whiskey bars, O’Loclainn’s © Vic O’Sullivan / Lonely Planet

O’Loclainn’s Irish Whiskey Bar, Ballyvaughan, County Clare

A bastion of whiskey for over 80 years, no tour would be complete without dropping by O’Loclainn’s Bar, midway along the Wild Atlantic Way. This third generation family bar kept the spirit alive when the industry was in decline, and today has one of the finest collections in Ireland with over 300 bottles. Green Spot Single Pot Still is the bar’s signature whiskey, but also nestled into the cramped timber shelf space are rare blends, many out of production.

While you’re there

Check out the romantic ruins of Corcomroe Abbey and then tuck into some chocolate at Hazel Mountain.

The Dylan Whisky Bar, Kilkenny City

Victorian-style Dylan Whisky Bar on the Marble City’s spruced up John Street is just eight years old, but what it lacks in age it makes up for with a vast collection of whiskey brands. For €20 you get to sample a single malt, their brand of the month and a third whiskey from a range of around 200 – the well trained bar staff can help you decide and are a mine of information. While the reason for the pub’s rock ‘n’ roll name is clear thanks to the Bob Dylan paraphernalia on the walls, less obvious is why it chooses to use the Scottish spelling of ‘whisky’.

While you’re there

Kilkenny is well worth exploring and its new Medieval Mile Museum is a great addition to the city’s sights.

Bushmill’s whiskey might be old, but nearby Dunluce Castle has an even longer past © Rainbow79 / Getty Images / iStockphoto

Bushmills, Antrim

King James I granted the Old Bushmill’s Distillery its licence back in 1608, which makes it the oldest on the planet. Along with a long history comes a great value-for-money tour (just £8), walking you through the whiskey-making process from sourcing to bottling. Keep the camera in the pocket as it’s a no-photo zone. The 12-year single malt is the highlight of the tasting and only available on site.

While you’re there

Coastal perched Dunluce Castle, the ruined castle of your imagination, is a very short drive from the distillery.

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On a drive up the eastern shore of Wisconsin, the road ends in Door County, a charming 75-mile peninsula sandwiched between Lake Michigan and Green Bay that attracts more than 2 million visitors each year. Door County has been called ‘The Cape Cod of the Great Lakes’ due to its laid-back coastal charm and the historic small towns that dot its peaceful shores.

Dramatic water views, charming small towns and historic lighthouses draw visitors to Door County, Wisconsin © Matt Anderson Photography / Getty Images

Despite being one of the premier destinations in the Great Lakes, Door County, settled in the 1850s by primarily Scandinavian and Belgian immigrants, retains a slow pace of life and rural vibe that make it feel worlds away from the hustle and bustle of Chicago or Milwaukee. In fact, outside of Sturgeon Bay (Door County’s only ‘city,’ with a population of around 10,000), no chains or franchises are allowed. But who needs them? This breathtakingly beautiful county features 300 miles of shoreline, 53 public beaches, 16 communities, 11 historic lighthouses, eight wineries and five state parks – not to mention 19 county parks, three microbreweries, and a distillery.

Making your way north

Most visitors enter Door County from the south and, in general, towns get smaller the further north you travel. First you’ll pass through the comparatively gritty Sturgeon Bay (famous for its maritime history, including ship-building in WWII) and continue northward until you reach Egg Harbor. The popular Shipwrecked Brew Pub (housed in an 1882 building that was one of the oldest in Door County) suffered a fire last summer, but is expected to reopen by summer 2018. In the meantime, stop in at Harbor View Grill for cocktails and flaky whitefish tacos before you stretch your legs at the adjacent Harbor View Park to enjoy your first full view of the shimmering blue waters of Green Bay.

It’s a pleasure to stroll down Fish Creek’s old-fashioned Main Street © Cosmo Condina / Getty Images

A bit farther north is the bustling town of Fish Creek, with a delightfully walkable downtown lined with shops, bars and cafes, like the popular Wild Tomato pizza joint and frozen custard purveyor Not Licked Yet. Fish Creek Boat Tours leads scenic cruises along the bay, checking out the turn-of-the-century mansions of ‘Millionaire’s Row,’ historic lighthouses and many natural areas. Fish Creek is also home to Peninsula State Park, which includes an 18-hole golf course (one of 11 golf courses in Door County).

Take me to the other side

Across the peninsula from Fish Creek, on the more laid-back Lake Michigan side of Door County, Bailey’s Harbor is a delightful little hideaway and home of the rustic Door County Brewing Co. Tap Room & Musical Hall. Pick up a pint of Little Sister Witbier or Polka King Porter and participate in friendly lawn games out front, or listen to live bands in the back. But no trip to Bailey’s Harbor is complete without a pilgrimage to the Blue Ox, the city’s legendary dive. The burger is famous here, but the playful staff and the people-watching are equally satisfying.

Just north of town is Gordon Lodge, a cool spot with a summer-camp vibe. Come here to hang out by the water or hike in the woods. Grab a drink by the fire pits before heading to the lodge’s excellent Top Deck Restaurant, which boasts expansive views of Lake Michigan and some of the freshest fish in the area (whitefish is big around these parts, as you’ll learn).

Ice cream, fish boils and rooftop goats

Back over on the Green Bay side, the town of Ephraim couldn’t be cuter if it tried. With a proud Scandinavian flair and some of the finest waterfront parkland in Door County, the 1906-established Wilson’s Restaurant & Ice Cream Parlor serves up cool treats that are pretty much the definition of summer on the lake. Across the street, you can rent your own pontoon boat at South Shore Pier Boat Rentals to explore nearby bluffs, lighthouses and beaches while getting a unique vantage point of the scenic Door County coastline. Then again, if you just wanted kick back in the sun and crack open a few beers on the boat, no one would blame you. The Old Post Office Restaurant is an iconic local spot here for fish boils, a Great Lakes tradition similar to crawfish boils in the South, where whitefish, onions and potatoes are boiled up together in one big pot over an open fire. The whole thing is set ablaze just prior to serving, making for a dramatic finish.

Traditional Great Lakes fish boils are a dramatic dining option in Door County © davelogan / Getty Images

North of Ephraim is Sister Bay, which makes an excellent base for exploring the less developed section of Door County. The once sleepy town is one of the region’s finest, and has added a German-style beer hall, new lakeside amphitheater and an alarmingly fun outdoor Swedish beer garden in recent years. The most famous spot here is Al Johnson’s, known around the world for its ‘goat cam’ that records the live goats (repeat: live goats) that graze the roof of this Swedish cabin-style restaurant.

If you’re in more of a hurry, Grasse’s Grill makes an excellent spot for to-go fare, with healthy, hearty soups and sandwiches. Take the short walk to the water and eat on a picnic bench overlooking the bay at Sister Bay Beach, the largest waterfront beach park in Door County. Paddle boats and canoes can also be rented. Don’t leave Sister Bay without making the pilgrimage to the glorious Fred & Fuzzy’s Waterfront Bar & Grill. Order a bratwurst with all the trimmings. Watch the sunset. Sip a refreshing cherry margarita. Repeat.

Sunsets are prime time for relaxation in Door County © Jay Gentile / Lonely Planet

Peaceful parks and dramatic views

Passing through the small hamlet of Ellison Bay and the picturesque Ellison Bluff State Natural Area, you’ll reach the northernmost town on the main Door County peninsula. It’s called Gills Rock. And it’s amazing. The town consists of little more than a few shops, a maritime museum and one of the best restaurants in Door County, The Shoreline. The food (particularly the fresh-boiled whitefish topped with a homemade pesto) is spectacular, and the views are even better. Stop by on the 4th of July, when the entire town erupts into one giant party, with fireworks over the water and a scene straight out of Mayberry.

But perhaps the best reason to visit this little slice of Door County is Newport State Park, featuring oft-deserted beaches that are a huge contrast to the crowded trails of Peninsula State Park. Open a book, lay out a blanket and commence relaxation. An even bigger secret can be found just a short drive away at Europe Bay Beach, located at the end of Europe Bay Road. On this virtually locals-only beach, you can explore the sand dunes and take in the wonderful solitude.

The influence of Scandinavian immigrants can be seen in Door County’s architectural details © gurineb / Getty Images

Island-hopping

Once you’ve reached the northernmost tip of the peninsula, there’s still more to explore. One of the best things to do in Door County is to ride the ferry from Northport (just north of Gills Rock) across the legendary Death’s Door strait, the infamous site of many shipwrecks for early French explorers. These days, the trip is much safer – just load in your car and you’re off on your merry way.

The ferry drops you off in the town of Washington Island, a small collection of homes and shops where the majority of the island’s 700 or so residents live. But the main attraction here is world-famous Schoolhouse Beach, which offers stunning views of brilliant, Caribbean-clear waters from its limestone-pebble shores. Regardless of how tempted you might be, resist the urge to take one of the rocks home with you: it’s illegal.

The clear waters and limestone shores of Schoolhouse Beach make for a peaceful retreat © davelogan / Getty Images

There’s yet another island just a short ferry ride away. On Rock Island State Park, the only ‘room’ to rent is a campsite by the water. No vehicles are allowed on this primitive island, home of the oldest lighthouse in Wisconsin (the 1836 Pottawatomie Lighthouse), a few historic stone structures and a small strip of beach.

For most visitors, this is the end of the road. But with dozens of additional named and unnamed barrier islands located off of Door County’s coasts, is it really?

Make it happen

The rise of the automobile brought tourism to Door County, and it’s still the best way to explore this rural region. Time your visit for the high season, between April and October, to make the most of your trip.

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