Whether you want to go hunting for prized black truffles or to enjoy the gourmet fungus in risottos, pastas and omelettes, the perfect place to do it is in Istria, Croatia.

The truffle trade

The truffle trade is less like a business than a highly profitable cult, revolving around an expensive, malodorous, subterranean fungus which is picked in dark woods and sold for a small fortune. Devotees claim that once you’ve tasted this small, nut-shaped delicacy, all other flavours seem insipid.

There are 70 sorts of truffles in the world, of which 34 come from Europe. The traditional truffle-producing countries are Italy, France and Spain, but Istrian forests boast three sorts of black truffles as well as the big white truffle (one of the most prized in the world, at 34,000KN per kilo).

Croatia’s largest exporter of Istrian truffles is Zigante Tartufi. In 1999 the company’s owner Giancarlo Zigante, along with his dog Diana, found the world’s largest truffle in Istria, weighing 1.31kg and making it into the Guinness Book of World Records.

Because no sign of the truffle appears above ground, no human can spot it, so dogs (or, traditionally, pigs) are the key to a successful truffle hunt. Istrian truffle-hunting dogs (breks) may be mongrels, but they are highly trained. Puppies begin their training at two months, but only about 20% of them go on to have fully fledged careers as truffle trackers.

The truffle-hunting season starts in October and continues for three months, during which time at least 3000 people and 9000-12,000 dogs wander around the damp Motovun forests. The epicentre of the truffle-growing region is the town of Buzet.

How to experience truffles in Croatia:

Take a truffle tour

If you want to experience truffle-hunting, contact the friendly Karlić family, who can arrange such a trip; request a tour in English ahead of time. The tour includes a story about truffles, cheese and truffle tasting, and then a hunt in the forest that lasts up to two hours.

Eat them! Try these restaurants:

Sveti Nikola, Poreč

Culinary innovation is part of the deal at this elegant restaurant by the water. You can’t go wrong with the set menus, but the fish fillet with asparagus and black truffles is a sumptuous experience.

Gostiona Kvarner, Labin

Just steps from Titov Trg, this restaurant has a terrace overlooking the sea, good food and a loyal following of locals. The fuži (hand-rolled pasta) with truffles is a measly 80KN, which is a bargain considering the expense of truffle-hunting.

Konoba Marino, Pazin

It dishes out copious portions of fuži with game, ombolo (boneless pork loin) with cabbage, and a variety of truffle dishes in a cosy tavern.

Stara Oštarija, Buzet

This is the place to try truffles in the old town. For a splurge, order a slow-food truffle menu of six courses (645KN for two). It even has ice cream with olive oil and truffles! The classy place has views of the valley below.

If food and travel are your passions, then be sure to sample the many tasty offerings served up by the new Lonely Planet book A Moveable Feast, a 38-course meal of food tales from around the world. You can find out more about truffles in Andrew Zimmern’s chapter, Like Father Like Son.

The world’s biggest free blues fest? Everyone knows Chicago has that. A martini-pouring jazz club where Al Capone bootlegged whiskey? Common knowledge. Then there are the spots that have fallen off the usual itinerary, the ones that require imagination and a little elbow grease to appreciate them.

Louis Armstrong and the hardware store

The most unlikely spot for jazz buffs is Meyers Ace Hardware store (315 E 35th St, Bronzeville) on Chicago’s South Side. In the 1920s and 30s the building was the Sunset Cafe, a hotbed for the swinging genre. Imagine Louis Armstrong blowing his trumpet over by the socket wrenches. Or Earl Hines hammering the piano, down in the plunger aisle. And that was just the house band. All the greats gigged here, black and white alike. Benny Goodman, Jimmy Dorsey and Bix Beiderbecke all launched their careers at the Sunset.

‘We’ve had people come in and hug the wall posts, saying they wanted to get close to the music’, says David Meyers, owner of the store, which has sold supplies here for roughly 50 years.

While Chicago landmarked the building, there’s no hint of its past life – no plaque marking the spot or jazz tchotchkes for sale. But if Meyers is around and not too busy, he’ll take you into the back office that was once the stage. The original, red-tinged mural of jazz players splashes across the wall. He’ll bring out a box of yellowing news articles about the club, Armstrong’s sheet music, and the venue’s old menu (shrimp cocktail: $1). He’ll tell you about the German musicians who insisted on recording an album right smack in his office. He’ll even autograph a plunger for you.

South to Muddy’s house

A few decades later and a few miles south, a different sound played in the night air – literally different. Guitars screamed and bass lines rolled at new decibel levels, because Muddy Waters and friends had plugged in their amps. So began the electric blues.

At Waters’ red-brick house (4339 S Lake Park Ave, South Side), impromptu jam sessions with pals like Howlin’ Wolf and Chuck Berry erupted on the front lawn. Waters, of course, was Chicago’s main bluesman, so everyone who was anyone came to pay homage. Waters lived here for 20 years, until 1974, but today the building stands vacant in a lonely, tumbledown lot.

Rockin’ at Chess Records

Keith Richards called the unobtrusive building on S Michigan Ave ‘Mecca’ and dragged the Rolling Stones here in 1964. The band had to haul their own equipment up the stairs. And during two heady days in June, they recorded parts of 12 x 5, their first American album.

The building was once Chess Records, the seminal electric blues label that paved the way for rock ‘n’ roll. It’s now the Willie Dixon Blues Heaven Foundation (2120 S Michigan Ave, Near South Side), named for the bassist who wrote most of Chess’s hits. Staff give tours Monday through Saturday that take in the reception area (Minnie Ripperton worked the desk) and main studio (designed by a 21-year-old newbie who inadvertently created the room’s remarkable sound). Bands play free concerts in the side courtyard on Thursday evenings.

Listen in, and you can’t help thinking Dixon summed it all up when he said, ‘The blues is the roots, and everything else is the fruits.’

The old Chess studio is 2 miles south of downtown’s core and easy to reach. Bronzeville is about 4.5 miles south of downtown and tricky to get to without a car. You’ll also need wheels to reach Muddy Waters’ home in the Oakland neighbourhood, about 6 miles south of downtown. It’s private property so you can’t go inside.

The pilgrims’ walk from the shores of Lake Tana to Kristos Samra church is no more than a few hundred metres, yet feels like a 2000 year time-drop.

With their tall walking sticks, white cotton shawls and referential air, the pilgrims seem to have jumped straight out of a bible scene. Tiny papyrus boats offer to take us across a canal – some prefer to leap into the waters for impromptu baptisms.

The waterway is not the last obstacle on our quest; to reach the festival’s ‘inner sanctum’, the area near Kristos Samra church, we have to zigzag up a steep hill, tip toe around hundreds of sleeping pilgrims and, on occasions, elbow our way in a very unholy manner through throngs of people.

Like the keenest of the faithful, I squeeze right through to the front of the church, get a blessing from the priest and gather some holy ash. I have to check my senses. Where is that devotional fervour coming from? Is it simply the power of mass emotion, or do I secretly hope that prayers made here are indeed invested with special powers?

Kristos Samra, Ethiopia’s most important female Saint, is revered for having devoted her life to praying for others – including the Devil – and any plea passed through her to God is almost certain to be answered – apparently. I sneak in a prayer, feeling like a cheat.

I simply can’t muster the kind of faith that renders the faces of those around me radiant with joy, as they observe the colourful procession of priests, bearing the church’s copy of the Ark of the Covenant. And so I remain an observer – at one of the most mind-blowing rituals I’ve ever witnessed.

Katharina Kane travelled to Ethiopia on assignment for Lonely Planet. You can follow her adventures on Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening internationally on National Geographic.

Toss aside your preconceptions, and come with us on a tour of the greatest comeback cities in the world, with this excerpt from Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2011. Once deep down in the urban dumps, these cities have bounced back from the brink of becoming no-go destinations, turning tumultuous pasts into tourist drawcards.

1. Berlin, Germany

Stalinist-style buildings were slated by contemporaries even as they were erected in post-WWII Berlin; architecture on Karl-Marx-Allee was mockingly dubbed ‘wedding-cake style’. No surprises that now communism is kaput, Soviet-era hallmarks have been preserved with a degree of tongue-in-cheek. Preservation wasn’t easy: following the Fall many favoured obliterating communist architecture. Now if Soviet sights are your thing you can, besides visiting the Wall, catch live music at the old Träenenpalast (‘hall of tears’; where families said farewells near the Wall), see a movie at communist cinema Kino International or experience the DDR Museum, where exhibits even allow you to get spied on by the Stasi.

Soon after pre-Fall film The Lives of Others was released in 2006, Ostel, self-styled ‘Der DDR design hotel’ opened its doors. Secure a stay in its communist-themed rooms.

2. Ayacucho, Peru

Now it’s a colonial gem of the Andes rivalling Cuzco for majesty; 20 years ago it was the heart of the Shining Path terrorist movement that decimated the Peruvian highlands, with travellers steering well clear. The turnaround in Ayacucho has been monumental: paved roads only reached here in 1999. Since then tatty house facades have been spruced up and streets pedestrianised to get that idyllic, untouched-by-time feeling flowing again through the city. A cluster of chic-but-cheap hotels and restaurants have opened too, all in complete harmony with the buzzing colonial vibe.

Cream of the crop of charismatic colonial accommodation in Ayacucho is Hotel Santa Rosa. Check their Spanish-language website or call in (Lima 166, Ayacucho).

3. Beirut, Lebanon

Rallying from devastation is typical of Beirut: a city set back by two major conflicts in the last 30 years. Still, incredibly, meze and macchiatos are served up from its relaxed restaurants and cafes in a downtown rebuilt to its former grandeur. Hamra, a hotbed of Lebanon’s civil war, now has shops and clubs favoured by an international following of fashionistas and partygoers. Formerly on the front line, Beirut National Museum was torn apart by militia fighting: renovation has seen the museum regain its status as a world-famous cultural centre. Much like the city as a whole, actually.

At the heart of downtown, Etoile Suites has individually-designed rooms and a rooftop terrace.

4. Asmara, Eritrea

Many who have glimpsed visually-arresting Asmara call it Africa’s most beautiful city due to its innovative art deco architecture, built by Mussolini during his unsuccessful campaign to create a second Roman empire. For much of the last 50 years, however, Eritrea was embroiled in war with neighbouring Ethiopia, first for independence and then over territory. Tensions between the countries remain, but the Eritrean capital is no longer off-limits. Its treasure trove of beautiful buildings now beg for discovery, including Benito’s old party headquarters and Fiat Tagliero, a futuristic fuel station shaped like a plane poised for take-off.

Few hotels in Asmara have their own websites: instead visit www.asmera.nl for intriguing information on the city covering accommodation to architecture.

5. Glasgow, Scotland

When the ‘Glasgow’s miles better’ campaign launched in 1983, the city was being mentioned in the same breath as ‘knife crime’ and ‘decay’. Campaign slogans, most famously fixed to rusting gasworks in the industrial outskirts, initially seemed far-fetched: yet they worked. Glasgow reinvented itself and was soon winning accolades like European City of Culture. Championing industrial heritage became integral to new-look Glasgow. The once-grim River Clyde, heart of the city’s post-WWII slump, has morphed into its cultural focal point with museums replacing derelict docklands. Ambling today through a centre of astounding architecture and cool cafe-bars, it’s hard to imagine the bad times ever existed.

Trundle down the Clyde in the spirit of Glasgow’s 19th-century entrepreneurs on the Waverley, the world’s last ocean-going paddle steamer.

6. León, Nicaragua

Beleaguered by earthquakes and blitzed during the Nicaraguan Revolution, it’s a wonder León has emerged from the ashes of its all-too-recent past with anything left worth seeing, let alone oozing colonial charm. When it became the Revolution’s first city to fall to Sandinistas, then-president Somoza famously responded: ‘bomb everything that moves until it stops moving’. Plenty of signs from the conflict remain. Bullet holes from street fighting still riddle buildings; visit Museo de Tradiciones y Leyendas (Museum of Traditions and Legends) for an overview of the Sandinista rise to power.

Volunteer adventure group Quetzaltrekkers runs volcano treks in the León region: profits go to help local street children.

7. Rotterdam, The Netherlands

What is it about badly bombed cities and vibrant underground music scenes? Not that Rotterdam has nothing else besides its tradition of top electronica and hip hop to tempt travellers: its resurgence following the WWII annihilation of its historic heart has been remarkable. The area once Blitzed has reinvented itself through cutting-edge design projects, recently including a series of colourful lights demarcating the limits of Luftwaffe bombardment. Blight took a while to become bite but cultural renaissance now pulsates through the 2007 City of Architecture, along with a feast of festivals celebrating everything from film to Caribbean carnival.

Dine out almost 100m up in Rotterdam’s highest building, Euromast.

8. Volgograd, Russia

Sequestered in a portion of Russia rarely visited by foreign travellers, Volgograd and tourism have rarely gone hand in hand. Having seen Volgograd reduced to rubble after the Battle of Stalingrad (as it was formerly known), the then-US ambassador would lament this a ‘dead city’, but Volgograd is proving there is life after death. The battlefield is now renowned as an immense park of monuments to the Soviets that defended the city, crowned by the formidable 85m-tall Motherland Statue. Volgograd is a smart city but will never be a looker like St Petersburg – come instead for a moving crash course in WWII history at the many memorials and museums.

Aeroflot flies to Volgograd via Moscow; also consider S7 Airlines.

9. Yellowknife, Canada

Yellowknife rose to riches when gold was discovered nearby and slumped right back when gold-mining waned during the 1990s. Now the metropolis of Canada’s Northwest Territories (population almost 20,000) has again put its dark days behind it. Thanks to a diamond boom the economy is as buoyant as a Hudson Bay seal pup and the town is reaping the benefits. Now a state-of-the-art heritage centre looks back fondly on the gold rush. Meanwhile, in quirky Old Town (known as ‘The Rock’), designer architecture is replacing the ramshackle huts of old; the wonderful Wildcat Cafe serves as a reminder of the town’s tough gold-prospecting times gone by.

Fish, kayak or go aurora-viewing on the lakes north of Yellowknife at the cozy Yellow Dog Lodge.

10. Belgrade, Serbia

Ask anyone across the former Yugoslav nations: Belgrade is where the big night out is. Bombing during the Kosovo War along with one of the world’s worst-ever hyperinflations brought this city to its knees but the music scene survived, booming to make this one of Eastern Europe’s party capitals. Being the cradle of the 1980s Yugoslav New Wave got the ball rolling and Belgrade today is, from rock to rave, a magnet for music-lovers. Being repeatedly razed to the ground also fashioned a riveting cityscape for Belgrade – it’s a potpourri of ancient forts, neoclassic and modernist masterpieces.

Tune in to Belgrade’s classical music extravaganza, Bemus Festival, or go wild up the road at Novi Sad’s Exit Festival.

Want to know what’s hot in the world of travel? See Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2011 – the best trends, destinations, journeys and experiences for the upcoming year.

Travellers learn to grab forty winks in some pretty taxing situations: overnight bus trips, hostel rooms of 15 snorers, humid places with no air-con. But some nights test even the most hardened sleeper. Here are seven of the best ‘worst night’s sleep’ stories we’ve ever heard:

A sleep-fuelled tale, Senegal to Mali

‘I was catching the train from Tambacounda in Senegal to Bamako in Mali – a three-day trip. The train turned up three days (yes, days) late at midnight, and an already full train was filled by about as many people again. We managed to eke out about two square metres in a corridor and when fatigue really kicked in about 4am, I tried to curl up and sleep with my head resting on my tent bag. I managed this with some success over the next two nights but had really bad headaches during the day – when we got to Bamako and I unpacked my stuff I discovered (and I can’t believe I didn’t notice this along the way), the petrol bottle for my camp stove had been leaking in my tent bag and I’d basically been drugging myself to sleep each night with low grade petrol. I think it says a lot for the general hygiene and aroma of the carriage that I didn’t notice the petrol smell until I got off.

To make matters worse, I had these horrible stomach pains during the trip and discovered at a hospital in Bamako that I had kidney stones. It’s three days I’ll never forget and without a doubt my most horrific travelling memory.’
– Geoff

A tall man on a train, China

‘I needed to be halfway across China in a week to start a job and was pretty much bankrupt. I went to buy a soft sleeper train ticket and found they were sold out for a week. Hard sleeper: sold out. Soft SEAT: sold out. I eventually purchased a hard seat ticket, and I had the centre seat in a block of three. The journey itself was FORTY FOUR (44!) hours, so I needed to sleep twice. Being tall, there was no WAY I was going to be able to sleep in those seats, so I laid down newspaper under the seats (I don’t want to even think about how filthy they were) and then wedged myself (and all my valuables) under the seat. I could just lie flat, but I couldn’t roll over as the seat was so low. My accommodating fellow passengers looked rather bemused as I jammed myself in there, with my head jutting out around their feet. Arriving in Xi’an two days later was one helluva relief!’
– Adam

Railway sleeper, Australia

‘I once slept under a disused railway bridge in Katherine in the Northern Territory, Australia after I’d run out of money. Worried about snakes, I pulled my sleeping bag above my head and after an hour of quiet I fell asleep, but was soon woken up by footsteps coming towards me. I didn’t dare get up in case I gave away my position. I stretched my head around as much as possible, but it was too dark to see anything. The steps increased in volume; there were now several people surrounding me. I feared I was sleeping in a spot where homeless people came to get drunk or drunker and this was confirmed by the randomness of their movements, but they had yet to make any sounds other than their footsteps. I lay awake frozen rigid and listened for what seemed like an eternity, until I couldn’t take it anymore and sat up to look around properly. The sound of my movement froze the footsteps. I stared into the abyss, trying to anticipate their next move. After a minute, I made out the shapes of my enemies: a mob of wallabies. After a few minutes they moved away to forage elsewhere. But my mind was full of imaginary bunyips for the rest of the night and I didn’t sleep another wink!’
– Mark

Bugged out, India

‘I was in India just before the monsoon and it was bugs bugs bugs. I made the really bad mistake of keeping the fluoro on till about midnight (I was engrossed by Miss Smilla’s Feeling for Snow). The combination of white sheets and fluoro light was way too alluring for legions of little black bugs that began raining down on me. I finished the book sitting up in an armchair, watching as my bed blackened with them. About 2am, exhausted, I carefully swept every bug off the sheets and turned off the light, thinking this would signal the end of the bug bacchanale. But no. I spent the rest of the night listening to the ‘pock! pock!’ of bugs hitting sheet and engaging in an exhausting ‘brush-brush-brush’ routine. My quasi-Buddhist ideals held out for about an hour; towards the end I was dazedly decapitating each bug and throwing the bodies on the floor. One of the most hideous nights of my life.‘
– Rose

Bloody hell, South Africa

‘After an error in our pre-planning, we were sad to learn that there was no way we were entering South Africa without a Yellow Fever certificate. One option remained – 24hrs in the airport. It was 9:30pm and all the rooms in the transit hotel were taken but the chap said it was worth waiting as a room could become free at anytime. So we settled into the foyer and duly waited. The hours passed and there was no order to the growing queue, which included a distraught woman on her way to Cote D’Ivoire for a hysterectomy. She spoke only French, and it seemed I was the only other person who could manage a few words of her language. She groaned and moaned on the floor insisting on a room, which didn’t materialise; the reception staff looked past her as her pain crescendoed and she waddled to the toilets. When she didn’t return, I thought I’d better check on her. I found her on the bathroom floor in a puddle of blood and quickly raised the alarm. A doctor arrived and a surreal situation ensued where I translated between doctor and patient in the bathroom of a transit hotel in Johannesburg at 1am. She was taken off in a stretcher and I returned to the foyer and my bemused partner and continued waiting for the increasingly mythical ‘room’.

At 2am they finally admitted what we had suspected all along – there were no rooms and what’s more, we were no longer allowed to wait in the foyer as we were making the place look untidy. We felt like vagrants as we were moved on into the now empty airport. We found a closed Starbucks, pushed two sofas together and slumped finally into a fitful sleep. An hour or so later my partner woke with a scream, which I echoed as we found ourselves face to face with a fierce man leaning over us. He was a security guard, his sole goal the protection of Starbucks and once again, we were moved on.

A few shops down there were a couple more chairs and we attempted some more shut-eye, just as the cleaners arrived. They began to vacuum around us but we pushed on through for a few more moments (I remember dreaming that our possessions were being vacuumed off us) until they turned on the radio, frequency set to 80s rock. It was 5am. We gave up. Starbucks opened, we bought ourselves a coffee and began 12 more hours of waiting like zombies in the airport from hell. I used to want to visit South Africa, but not anymore. I feel like I’ve already spent a lifetime there!‘
– Anna

Zombie bus, Indonesia

‘Thirty-six hours on a zombie bus from Bukittinggi (Sumatra) to Jakarta spanned two nights. The first night I was stuck right up the back where everyone else used me as a pillow, while at the same time trying to steal anything they could find. I lost my sunglasses, but managed to beat off the woman trying to nick my watch. I then got moved next to an old man who stoutly refused to open the window even though the bus wasn’t air-conditioned. At the end of the second night I got dumped onto the side of a six lane motorway on Jakarta’s outskirts. I squeezed onto a crowded local bus feeling more dead than alive. When the driver slammed on the brakes I grabbed a woman in a headlock as I headed towards the windscreen and we both ended up in the stairwell. I took trains for the rest of that trip.‘
– Steve

Sleepless nights with a newborn, India

‘I was in India an overnight train from Shimla to Delhi. In an effort to save my pennies, I’d booked into second class, expecting at least a seat. I was disappointed to find that it was standing room only and the eight hours yawned before me as I wedged myself into the rabble for the night. A few hours in to the journey, a woman a few sardines down began to moan. A makeshift curtain was hastily erected as those near her shuffled away, and the muffled moans continued until the unmistakable sound of a newborn pierced the air. The sheet came down and I watched as the baby was swaddled and the exhausted woman slumped in the corner. I was astounded– did that really just happen? Those around me continued to natter and doze as though all she’d done was sneeze. Sometime later I must have dropped off and as I woke, I noticed there seemed to be more space near where the woman was. At last! I thought, a chance to sit down! It was dark, I was befuddled and sleep–deprived; it didn’t occur to me to wonder why no one else had made the move as I nestled down. But once at floor level, a smell overwhelmed me and something damp seeped through my shorts.

I was sitting in the afterbirth.

I jumped up in horror and forced my way back to my original position, willing morning and my destination to arrive. I’m fairly sure I was in deeper shock than the poor woman who’d had the misfortune to give birth on a train!’
– Megan

What is your worst tale of sleep deprivation whilst travelling? Do share…

We’ve all read a book or watched a movie and wished the places it transported us to were real. Some of the most enduring destinations are fictional. Well, not completely. Some were inspired by real places that resonated with their authors.

So, here are my top mythical locations. What have I missed?

10. Hundred Acre Wood

The home of Winnie the Pooh, Christopher Robin, Piglet, Eeyore, Tigger and friends, the lush and charming Hundred Acre Wood is the literary soul mate of Ashdown Forest in Sussex. The perfect place to get in touch with your inner child, the Wood is known for its honey, tree climbing and the endangered Heffalump species.

9. Narnia

The kingdom of Narnia, brought to life by C.S Lewis, captured the heart of young readers desperate for their own wardrobe portal to a wondrous land where animals talk and magic abounds. Lewis was inspired by his native Northern Ireland when conjuring Narnia’s wildflowers, haunting castles and majestic mountains, but the creators of the recent film version decided that New Zealand did it for them. The latest film is scheduled to be shot at White Island in the breathtaking Bay of Plenty.

8. El Dorado

The mythical city of gold has come to represent things opulent or unattainable. Inspired by stories of a ‘gilded’ man, El Dorado is said to overflow with unimaginable treasures. It has enticed centuries of explorers, but remains as elusive as the Holy Grail (thus far…) If you want to evoke the mood of the legend, the jungles and ruins of Central and South America are your golden ticket. Feel like joining an expedition? Edgar Allen Poe offers this cryptic clue: Where can it be, this land of El Dorado? Over the Mountains of the Moon, Down the Valley of the Shadow…”

7. Neverland

Rumour has it only children can visit Neverland, but if you think happy thoughts you might just find your way to the famous home of Peter Pan, Captain Hook and the Lost Boys. Multiple suns and moons make for some crazy weather, but the chance to fly through treetops and cave dive with Peter and his posse makes up for it. Wildlife includes flamingos, crocodiles, fairies and pixies, but it’s the mermaids and the pirates you have to watch out for. J.M. Barrie may have named Neverland after the Australian outback (Never Never Land) but reliable Lost Boy sources inform us it resembles Madagascar.

6. Wonderland

Who wouldn’t like to travel via rabbit hole? It might be a bit bumpy, but these days it seems less confronting than flying and promises something much more marvellous at journey’s end. Lewis Carroll’s classic tale of Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland introduced a beguiling universe of floating Cheshire cats, tea loving Mad Hatters, power hungry playing cards and scrumptious food with peculiar after-effects. Mischief is the national sport of Wonderland, where riddles and pranks await you if you’re sufficiently curious (and who wouldn’t be, when the flowers talk back and the furniture changes size). Carroll based Wonderland on the people and places in his own life, particularly around Oxford, where he attended university. A carving in North Yorkshire’s magnificent Ripon Cathedral is also said to have inspired the trip down the rabbit hole.

5. Camelot

Arthurian scholar Norris J. Lacy once said that “Camelot, located nowhere in particular, can be anywhere.” That hasn’t stopped historians and hopeful tourism boards scrambling to locate the real life spot where King Arthur wielded Excalibur, married Lady Guinevere and made merry with his Knights of the Round Table. Plenty of places have laid claim to Arthurian fame, including Winchester (with its own round table), the small South Welsh town of Caerleon and Somerset (where locals insist Cadbury Castle was Arthur’s pad). Consult Wikipedia for a list of real places associated with Arthur and his noble empire, but a wander through the picturesque countryside of Wales, Scotland or England will capture its legendary spirit of romance and idyll.

4. Atlantis

The subject of debate since Plato first wrote about it in 360BC, Atlantis is said to have sunk into the seas one night around 9000 BC after its people (descended from the god Poseidon), invaded one kingdom too many. At the heart of the massive island continent was a series of concentric circles and canals, and its sophisticated architecture and culture was reminiscent of ancient Greece. The city still inspires popular culture and every once in a while someone claims to have found it. While scholars largely accept the tale was a fable, some think Plato was referring to ancient Ireland.

3. Brigadoon

There one minute, gone the next, illusive, mist-shrouded Brigadoon is how many travellers like to imagine Scotland. Made famous by its musical namesake, Brigadoon is actually based on a German fairytale about a cursed village whose inhabitants are only allowed to roam free once a century. Brig o’ Doon will ring a bell for Robert Burns’ fans. The author was born in Alloway, near the River Doon. If you want to pretend you’re the bonnie apple of Gene Kelly’s eye, this is the place.

2. Oz

Surrounded by desert on all sides, Frank L. Baum’s Oz is divided into four territories (including Munchkin land) with its capital, the Emerald City, in the middle and a yellow brick road connecting the lot. Though visitors should beware flying monkeys and coma inducing fields of poppies, Oz has it all – steam punk robots, witches, killer shoes, talking lions, scarecrow escorts and corrupt wizards. It’s popularly thought to represent different regions of the United States, but some think Oz may actually be China. For the real world treatment, try Sydney, Chicago or Dubai for the Emerald City, or good ol’ Kansas where it all began.

1. Middle Earth

It’s hard to find a more extensively documented and mapped non-existent destination. J.R.R Tolkien’s Middle Earth has more histories on record than many actual countries and has inspired the creation of entire languages. Peter Jackson forever associated Middle Earth with New Zealand with his Lord of the Rings film trilogy, and Wellywood is very happy to let tourists relive the adventure. Other places that capture the sweeping diversity of Middle Earth are Argentina, Scotland, Romania and Finland. Of course Tolkien had a war torn, newly industrial England in mind when he wrote the epic. Perhaps that’s why Middle Earth is so remarkable (and steals my number one spot). It’s a little bit of everywhere.

Runners Up:

Fantasia

Under constant threat from The Nothing, every child wanted to preserve the treasured world of the Never Ending Story (originally a German novel, and influenced by Europe’s landscape). The literal embodiment of our fantasies, its racing snails, rock giants, werewolves and flying luck dragons (Falkor!) were unforgettable.

Stormwind

11 million tourists can’t be wrong. The oldest human city in the lands of the massive World of Warcraft, Stormwind has seen its share of war over the years, but remains a vibrant hub of culture and trade. Surrounded by an imposing mountain range, its climate is temperate and the migrant communities of dwarfs and elves will keep you on your toes.

Fortress of Solitude

There are many famous comic book destinations, including Batman’s New York inspired Gotham City, but Superman’s preferred spot for R & R, the Fortress of Solitude, is one of the most appealing. Who wouldn’t like a palatial, snow-capped cone of silence where they can hide away from their supersize problems? For a real world taste, you could stay in Sweden’s Ice Hotel or cruise the chill wonders of Antarctica.

The desert landscape of Dubai may lend itself to traditional sports like falconry and endurance horse racing, but sports fans will find plenty to cheer about. Spectator sports like football and cricket are popular among locals and expats, and the emirate hosts a number of world-class sporting events that attract supporters from across the globe. Here’s where to get your fill.

Go trackside and catch a camel race from October to February © naes / Getty Images

Camel races

While the traditional sport of camel racing was originally only practised at weddings and special events, these days it’s a big business in Dubai with races held almost every weekend from October to March, culminating in the 10-day championships in February. The racecourse is 40km out of town with two swish grandstands and a floodlit track for night racing during Ramadan.

Traditionally the action has taken place right on the track, with spectators joining owners, as Emiratis still do now, following their lanky, long-lashed beauties around the track in their 4WDs, urging on their pride and joy. The rather erratic driving of the owners can be as entertaining as the camels, racing at speeds of up to 60km/h.

While the use of young jockeys was once a contentious issue, now robotic jockeys ride the ships of the desert, operated by remote control. It’s a curious sight, robots and camels galloping out of a cloud of dust, and 4WDs creating havoc on the course. Take your camera.

Visit Dubai in February or March to watch some of the world’s best golfers © Maksym Poriechkin / Shutterstock

Golf

It’s not surprising that the Dubai Desert Classic attracts some of the best golfers in the world. It’s one of the world’s richest tournaments, with prize money of US$2.65 million. Held at the Emirates Golf Club, the tournament runs for four days and takes place in late February or March. Many of Dubai’s golf-crazy expats take the whole week off for the opportunity to watch the world’s best go round their local course.

Football

The UAE football (soccer) premiership runs during winter and it’s definitely worth attending a match if you’re a bit of a football fanatic. Al Ain has been the most consistent team in recent years and the matches are as worth watching for the electrifying performances of the colour-coordinated cheer squad of drummers and singers, as for the on-pitch heroes. Stadiums are dotted around the city. See Gulf News for upcoming fixtures.

The world’s richest horse race takes place annually in Dubai © Sukhanova Daria / Shutterstock

Horse racing

A love of horses runs deep in Arab blood, and the racing season in Dubai has gained world attention, as has Dubai ruler Sheikh Mohammed’s Godolphin stables. The Dubai International Racing Carnival runs from February through to the end of March culminating in the Dubai World Cup, the world’s richest horse race. Gambling isn’t permitted, but the World Cup offers a fantastic people- and silly hat–watching experience. Check the website of the Emirates Racing Association for the exact dates of race meetings throughout the year.

Dubai’s spectacular cricket stadium hosts international matches © Hany Mahmoud / Getty Images

Cricket

International cricket is played at the Dubai International Cricket Stadium, the headquarters of the International Cricket Council (ICC) since 2009. Known for its spectacular system of floodlights called the ‘Ring of Fire’, the 25,000-seat stadium plays host to ‘day-night’, Test and Twenty20 matches. One of the most popular tournaments is the Emirates Airline T20, held over two days each March.

Dubai’s straight shooter

This being Dubai, where success is an expectation that is rarely unfulfilled, it comes as no surprise that the UAE’s first Olympic medal was gold in colour. Sheikh Ahmed Al Maktoum, a member of Dubai’s ruling family, won the men’s double trap shoot in style at the 2004 Athens Olympics with an Olympic record–equalling display of cool-headed marksmanship.

Tennis fans should grab tickets to the Dubai Tennis Championships, which take place in February © Kami Kami / Getty Images

Tennis

The Dubai Tennis Championships, held over two weeks from late February, consists of a Women’s Tennis Association event followed by an Association of Tennis Professionals event. There’s usually a good turnout of top names for the women’s event, and the men’s event is finally attracting the big names, too.

Rugby

The Dubai Rugby Sevens tournament takes place at the Sevens Stadium rugby ground and sees many of Dubai’s expats worshipping the sport of outdoor beer-drinking. There’s also a rugby competition that attracts teams from powerhouses such as New Zealand, France, South Africa and Fiji. It’s a popular social event that usually falls in the first weekend of December, attracting more than 100,000 enthusiastic spectators over three days.

Last updated in September 2017

Imagine a 4km hiking trail that’s built into a sheer rock face, looking out onto a forest of fantastical granite spires and a gorgeous canopy sprinkled with white rhododendron blooms. This is only one of the walks you can do at Sanqing Mountain (三清山), one of the most underrated national parks in eastern China. It’s underrated not just because of the unique scenery but also because it’s relatively unknown and less crowded than other Chinese mountains.

Unlike its more famous neighbour to the north, Huang Shan, Sanqing Mountain also has a spiritual legacy and has been a place of retreat for Taoist adepts for centuries. The name Sanqing means ‘The Three Pure Ones,’ in reference to the three main peaks, which are believed to resemble Taoism’s three most important deities. One hike leads to a secluded stone temple (三清宫) established in the Ming dynasty, one of the few – if not the only – Taoist temples in Jiangxi province to have survived the Cultural Revolution. Today, the temple is home to a small community of monks and nuns, who sit in the cool interior studying texts and guiding visitors through the proper worshipping techniques.

There’s no shame in the chairlift

You can reach Sanqing Mountain (admission Y150) from the town of Yushan (玉山), in Jiangxi province. There are two ways to the summit area: by cable car or by foot. The cable car (索道; Y125 return) leaves from the eastern base (东部). The porter’s trail – a sweaty 90-minute walk (2.5km) – leaves from the southern base (南部). There’s no shame in taking the chairlift as the most spectacular hiking is at the top; don’t be afraid to save your energy. There are enough trails that you could easily spend two days up here, though one day is also doable.

The main loop (roughly 8km) runs through the Nanqing Garden area (you won’t do this section if you hike up) and on to the ‘West Coast’ (西海岸), an exposed trail that was built into the cliff face at an average altitude of 1600m. This will take you to Sanqing Temple and the surrounding sights (the founder’s tomb and the Dragon-Tiger Altar). Continue following the ‘Sunshine Coast’ (阳光岸), which winds through a forest of ancient rhododendrons, sweet chestnut, bamboo, magnolia and pine, and at one point even features a glass-floored observation platform – not for the faint of heart.

There are a gazillion steps on the Sunshine Coast trail; make sure you take it on the way back from the temple. From here you can either head back to the cable car or the chairlift.

You can sleep in three areas: on the mountain, at the foot of the mountain or in the town of Yushan. Note that the hotels here provide you with a roof over your head, but not much more.

How to get here

Sanqing Mountain is a little over an hour away from the town of Yushan, on the Shanghai-Nanchang railway line. Minibuses (Y15; 6am-5.20pm) leave from the bus station for both the eastern and southern bases; make sure you specify which place you want to go to. Yushan is about seven hours by train from Shanghai. If you can’t get to Yushan, try Shangrao (上饶) instead; it’s only an hour away and has more connections. A taxi from the train station to the bus station in Yushan will cost about Y10.

Of course, there’s work to be done…

China wouldn’t be China if there wasn’t construction going on, and at the moment a new chairlift is being built at the southern base (expected completion date end of 2010). Consequently there is a lot of work along the trail up, but you can get good discounts at the hotels here since no one is using them.

Chris Pitts is researching the 12th edition of the China guidebook in Jiangxi province. Follow the tweets that slip through the Great Firewall.

Illuminated ancient amphitheatre of Philippopolis in Plovdiv © Nickolay Kunev / 500px

Ancient ruins in Plovdiv

Bulgaria’s ancient and romantic second city, Plovdiv is the 2019 European Capital of Culture for good reason. Ramble around the cobblestoned streets of the old town, have a peek at the 19th-century Bulgarian Revival–style mansions and climb at least one of its seven hills. The 200m-high Nebet Tepe (Prayer Hill) is particularly worth visiting for a stunning panoramic view; it also boasts the ruins of Eumolpias, a Thracian settlement dating from 5000 BC. Other highlights include the majestic Roman amphitheatre, built in the AD 2nd century under the reign of Emperor Trajan, and the Kapana artistic quarter, famous for its music and art festival that’s usually held in early June.

Getting there: Reaching Plovdiv takes just 90 minutes by car from Sofia (or even less due to the highway speed limit of 140 km/h). Buses and trains also run regularly; buses are more expensive but faster (it’s about two hours by bus and around three hours by train).

The towering Vrachanska Mountains, part of the Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park © ollirg / Shutterstock

Nature escape in Vratsa

Nestled in the foothills of the Vrachanska Mountains, Vratsa is a relaxed small town with charming pavement cafes, rich history and unspoilt nature on its doorstep. For a stroll with gorgeous views, opt for the bicycle track (which is mostly pedestrian) starting at the Hristo Botev square and ending at Chaika hotel and restaurant. Walking further, you’ll reach the Vratsata gorge, a natural phenomenon and a world-class rock-climbing spot. Alternatively, catch a taxi (around 15 lv one-way) and venture inside the famous Ledenika Cave (meaning ‘ice cave’) within the Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park. Don’t miss the regional history museum, whose prized possession is the Rogozen Treasure, a large collection of Thracian silver artefacts.

Getting there: Vratsa is easily accessible by car or bus (90 minutes to two hours). Buses depart almost every hour and cost around 12 lv. Another option is catching a train from Sofia’s Central Station (around 7 lv). Trains might have delays but the beautiful scenery of Iskar Gorge is well worth it.

The geyser with hot water in Sapareva Banya spa resort © stoyanh / Shutterstock

Hot springs in Sapareva Banya

There’s nothing more relaxing than a dip into a hot spring – even the Thracians and the Romans used to benefit from the restorative power of Sapareva Banya’s mineral waters. Choose your own spa indulgence at Complex Koko Hills or Sveti Nikola Hotel, among other top-rated spots; afterwards take a walk around the small town’s central area and check out the 18m-high geyser that’s considered the hottest in Europe (the water temperature is 103 degrees Celsius). Grab a traditional Bulgarian lunch at the nearby Geizera restaurant.

Getting there: Sapareva Banya is just about an hour’s drive by car from Sofia. No trains are available; buses aren’t recommended for a day trip as the earliest one usually departs in the afternoon.

The 70m-high Skakavitsa waterfall in the Rila Mountains © Jasmine_K / Shutterstock

Trek to the Rilska Skakavitsa waterfall

For an exhilarating trek, strap on your backpack and head to the Rilska Skakavitsa waterfall. Situated on approximately 2000m above sea level, this is the highest waterfall in the towering Rila Mountains. The area is part of the Rila National Park and it’s rich in rare flora and fauna, including the endemic white fir. The hike is refreshing and relatively easy, taking about an hour to reach the Skakavitsa Hut. Here you can refuel with meatballs and shopska salad, before continuing with the trek for another half an hour to enjoy the pleasant shade of the forest and marvel at the crystal-clear water cascading from a height of 70m.

Getting there: The trek starts from Zeleni Preslap district. From Sofia, it’s a 90-minute drive to the village of Panichishte; from there, continue to Zeleni Preslap for another 13 minutes. There’s no dependable public transport.

The colourful Rila Monastery, one of Bulgaria’s most sacred sites © K.O.Photography / Shutterstock

Spiritual experience at the Rila Monastery

Hidden in a lush valley in the Rila Mountains, the Rila Monastery is one of Bulgaria’s most revered landmarks that has served as a major religious and educational centre for centuries. Resembling a fortress, it features remarkable medieval architecture and religious art – pop into the main Church of Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno for a glimpse of splendid frescoes with apocalyptic scenes. The legend says that Rila Monastery was founded by hermit monk St Ivan Rilski. The saint lived a simple life, devoted to God, in a mountain cave near the monastery. It’s an easy walk through the forest to this sacred place, where wishes are believed to come true.

Getting there: The easiest way to visit the Rila Monastery is by car (the drive from Sofia takes about two hours) or as part of a tour. Public transport isn’t very reliable so it’s not the best option for a day trip.

Get more travel inspiration, tips and exclusive offers sent straight to your inbox with our weekly newsletter.